Contrary to popular belief, adobo did not originate from Spain. The Filipinos have been enjoying adobo long before Ferdinand Magellan’s arrival in 1521. Adobo is an integral part of Philippine cuisine and is not the name of a specific dish, but rather a method of marinating or pickling in vinegar. When the Spaniards first encountered our cuisine, they referred to it as “adobado” or marinated in vinegar. Unfortunately, they failed to inquire about the dish’s actual name, so its original designation remains lost in history. In the “Vocabulario de la lengua tagala” by fray Domingo de los Santos (1794), adobo is translated as “quilauin,” which refers to salt, vinegar, and chili being applied to meat, fish, or deer entrails. This mixture is then eaten half-cooked, not through fire, but by marinating it in vinegar. The text also suggests that adobo can be used as a salad dressing when combined with greens. The phrase “nagquiquilauin doon sa amin” is recorded in the dictionary. It is worth noting that garlic or soy sauce are not mentioned in the description. So, it begs the question: what is the purpose of the Department of Trade and Industry’s attempt to define and “standardize” Philippine adobo as part of the country’s cultural diplomacy?
While I acknowledge that my knowledge of Philippine food history is limited compared to experts like Doreen Fernandez and Felice Sta. Maria, I have always had a personal interest in the topic. During my undergraduate studies, I focused on food in Pampango culture as a means to connect with my own roots, learn the language, and develop a discerning palate. I must admit that I find the act of eating and tasting food more enjoyable than conducting archival research. My primary sources for food history are Tagalog vocabularies compiled by Spanish missionaries from the 17th to the 19th centuries. It is important to note that not all the missionaries were friars; some were Jesuits. When I eventually revise my undergraduate thesis for publication, I plan to consult Diego Bergaño’s “Vocabulario de la lengua Pampangan en romance,” which he compiled during his assignment in Bacolor. Although I currently possess a physical copy of the 1860 edition of the dictionary, I am unable to afford the rare 1729 first edition, which is currently being sold online for $38,500!
As I mentioned in my previous column, the De los Santos “Vocabulario” contains numerous entries related to rice. These entries not only include different types of rice, but also descriptions of rice at various stages of development, such as “palay” (raw unhusked rice), “bigas” (husked rice), “sinaing” (cooked rice), and “binulaclac” (popped rice). The dictionary even mentions “macabohay olila,” which refers to rice that is not fully hard yet can already be eaten. Other terms related to rice include “bolobor” (rice before transplanting) and “nagbabarar nagoogat” (rice taking root). The dictionary also describes the appearance of rice, such as “may mota” (rice with a film, similar to mote in the eyes) and “mongana” (when the rice bears fruit). The term “malagatas” is used to describe ripe but still young and soft rice, which becomes ready for consumption when it hardens. Additionally, the dictionary uses the term “dayapa” to portray rice stalks swaying in the wind.
When it comes to fish, Doreen Fernandez found that early Tagalog vocabularies contain a significant number of references to rice and fish, indicating their importance in the Philippine diet. The dictionary I consulted lists two types of fish: “pescado” (fish) and “pescadillo” (small fish). It describes “dilis” as being the size of a thin finger and commonly caught near Manila. “Dolong” is a small fish caught in rivers and lakes, while “quitiquiti” is a larger fish than “dolong” and is often referred to as “wrigglers” or mosquito larvae. The dictionary also mentions “maquitituiti dito” (many small fish are present here). The translation of “pescado” is “ysda,” and a fish vendor is referred to as “naglalaco ng ysda.” Some types of fish mentioned include “talangtalang” (salt fish), “talaquitoc” (a freshwater fish that is better than its saltwater counterpart), “dalag” (ordinary fish), “malasugui” (a precious fish caught in Mauban), “pantat” (a smooth fish from mountain rivers), “biya” (an ordinary white fish caught in rivers and Laguna de Bay), and “tagan” or “espada” (a large fish known for its ability to battle with crocodiles). The dictionary also includes terms for fishing nets (“lambat”), fish baskets (“salacab”), descriptions of hooks, and the distinction between fishing in saltwater, freshwater, and the high seas. As someone who primarily buys fish from the supermarket, I must admit that my knowledge in this area is limited, and I do not possess knowledge of how these fish are caught. Nonetheless, researching and exploring these food-related terms has been an enjoyable experience for me.
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