Before my trip to Japan, I pondered the idea of joining the Japanese in the hot springs for some skinny dipping. I asked our tour guide, James Mundy, if we could wear bathing trunks, but he firmly said no. However, two days later, I bravely made my way to the onsen bathhouse in Kinosaki, wearing wooden clogs and a thin cotton kimono. It was a nerve-wracking experience, but I mustered up the courage to participate.
At first glance, Japan seems like a mirror image of Britain. It’s a group of islands off the coast of a larger continent, just like the UK. They even share similar traits such as driving on the left, understanding queuing, and being reserved and courteous. However, Japan is also incredibly different and can be difficult to comprehend. It is a country known for its culture and uniqueness, which is why it’s a destination that shouldn’t be missed.
My five-day tour began in Osaka, a bustling port city on the southern coast of Japan. While lacking in charm, the city made up for it with its vibrant atmosphere. We started our evening with Wasabi-flavored cocktails at the Upstairz bar in the Hotel Zentis. Later, we explored the lively Dotombori area, where LED and neon advertisements lit up the canals and streets. Dinner was a memorable experience at a tiny 20-seat restaurant, where we enjoyed Okonomiyaki, a delicious savory pancake cooked on a hotplate table. After dinner, we wandered through the narrow backstreets, encountering hidden drinking dens and ancient Buddhist temples.
The next day, we embarked on a train ride to Kinosaki Onsen, a traditional spa resort on the west coast of Japan. The train journey provided a glimpse into the country’s unique landscape. Despite being a third larger than the UK, Japan is mostly mountainous, leaving only a quarter of land suitable for agriculture. With a population of 120 million, people live in close proximity to each other, resulting in a strong sense of community and shared insecurity. This has shaped Japanese society, where conformity and deference to rank replace religious beliefs. The crime rate is exceptionally low, and even the yakuza gangsters refrain from using guns. However, Japan also faces challenges such as a high suicide rate and social issues like acute agoraphobia.
Upon arriving in Kinosaki Onsen, we stayed at the Nishimuraya Honkan, a traditional ryokan owned by the same family for seven generations. The ryokan offered a unique and authentic experience, with its floor-level furniture, rice paper sliding screens, and tatami mat beds. We embraced the Japanese tradition of bathing in hot springs, shedding our inhibitions and enjoying the experience. Our guide, Richard Farmer, explained that in the onsen, everyone is equal regardless of their status.
Our journey continued to Kyoto, the spiritual capital of Japan. This low-rise city is filled with Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, surrounded by serene Zen gardens. We witnessed the harmonious blend of tourists, locals, and geishas in kimonos wandering the streets. After visiting ancient temples, we hopped on the Shinkansen, the high-speed bullet train, for a thrilling ride to Tokyo. The landscape outside the train window was a sight to behold, with valleys, houses, and factories stretching into the horizon.
Tokyo was a bustling metropolis that felt like a scene from Blade Runner, minus the sense of foreboding. The city was incredibly disciplined, with people weaving through crowds and waiting patiently at pedestrian crossings. It was mind-boggling to imagine how such a densely populated area could function so smoothly. Our hotel, The Bellustar, offered a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, with its chic minimalist design and quiet corridors.
During a dinner conversation with our hotel host, Yohei “Sunny” Shigeno, I asked him which city he preferred between Tokyo, New York, and London. He replied, “Oh, London…”
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