Ten years ago, while exploring the Renaissance city of Mantua in Lombardy, I encountered a group of cyclists preparing for a fascinating “bike and barge” journey to Venice. It was a unique opportunity to explore the lesser-known Polesine region, which encompasses the Po River and stretches to the Adriatic. Now, I find myself joining this trip on the Ave Maria, a transformed 42-meter transport boat that serves as a comfortable floating hotel.
On board, I am surrounded by 32 fellow passengers from various parts of the world, including Britain, Germany, America, Canada, and New Zealand. They range in age from teenagers to sprightly retirees, and unlike me, they are experienced cyclists. However, our tour leader, Hein Hoefnagels, a superfit 74-year-old Dutchman, assures me that this trip is more of a holiday than a road race. We will be cycling at a leisurely pace, covering 15 to 35 miles a day for eight days, with plenty of stops along the way. The terrain is mostly flat, and there is even the option to use an electric bike.
Our journey begins at 8am from Giudecca, as we enjoy breakfast while the boat slowly makes its way across the lagoon to the northern tip of the lido. Here, we encounter grand art deco villas and long sandy beaches. The avid cyclists don fluorescent spandex and gear, while I opt for a more casual T-shirt and shorts. As we set off along the lido’s narrow promenade, I initially worry about potential accidents. However, our guides ensure our safety, with one leading and the other trailing the group. The ride takes us along the stunning Murazzi sea wall, onto a ferry to the fisherman’s island of Pellestrina, and finally to the wild dunes of the Ca’Roman nature reserve.
While some of us explore the reserve, others head off on a birdwatching hike with the enthusiastic junior guide, Irene Badone. As we regroup on the Ave Maria, we indulge in high tea, which is prepared using recycled leftovers from breakfast. Dinner is a delicious affair, featuring local delicacies such as bigoli spaghetti with mackerel and wild fennel sauce, followed by roasted sea bream. As the day comes to a close, we are treated to a breathtaking sunset over the water.
Each evening after dinner, our tour leader Hein provides us with insights into the following day’s itinerary, touching on historical, social, and environmental aspects related to the places we visit. We learn about topics such as the acqua alta floods in Venice and the impact of climate change on the Po Delta region. The Ave Maria’s captain, Riccardo Tamani, also shares his knowledge and experiences, having spent his entire life working on the river and canals.
Throughout the trip, we encounter different surprises and highlights. We visit charming urban areas like Chioggia, Ferrara, and Mantua, known for their canals, architecture, and natural beauty. However, the most memorable moments are the unexpected sights, such as riding through the Po Delta nature reserve and spotting pink flamingoes and ancient cottages. We also visit a dairy that produces grana padano cheese and discover the enchanting Museo della Giostra in Bergantino, where fair rides for amusement parks have been made for over a century.
The tour organizers, Girolibero, provide flexibility and options for guests. Cyclists can either ride with the group and tour leader or explore independently using the free app. Rest days are also available, allowing guests to stay on the boat as it navigates canals and locks. During city stops, guests can choose between a guided tour or independent exploration, and they can enjoy roadside trattorias or create a packed lunch from the buffet breakfast. This balance of comfort and independence makes the trip suitable for less adventurous cyclists who still appreciate good food and a comfortable bed.
Girolibero offers similar bike and barge trips in France, through the Camargue to Avignon, and many of the group members are already considering it for their next holiday.
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