In the Okavango Delta bush, danger lurks at every turn, not just from the well-known predators like leopards and hyenas, but also from seemingly harmless animals. Even a warthog or a giraffe can prove deadly under the right circumstances. Impalas, with their innocent-looking eyes, can impale you if they feel threatened. And stepping on a barb of a camelthorn tree can cause a nasty infection. This is the reality of the wilderness – wealth and good taste mean nothing here. When encountering a lion while cycling through the Delta, it’s a humbling reminder of our place in nature.
Our guide, 31-year-old Kyle McIntyre, crouches down on the trail, examining fresh lion tracks in the sand. It’s likely a male lion, and he’s headed in our direction. The lion probably heard us coming from a distance, but it’s impossible to know if he’s sleeping or waiting for us in the tall grass ahead. Kyle shares his past experience of encountering a lion while cycling, escaping with just a mock charge and a terrifying roar. Compared to other hazards, lions are the top contender.
With caution, we continue our ride, Kyle reminding us to never run if we encounter any danger. Running only frightens animals and makes them unpredictable. This unique cycling safari offers a different kind of luxury, allowing us to experience the Okavango on more equal terms with the wildlife. We ride between camps, covering distances of 30-60km on hard-tail Scott Scale 720s with three-inch tires. The safari is available during the dry season, from June to October when the seasonal rains haven’t yet transformed the Okavango into a wetland paradise.
As we start our journey to the first camp, Kaziikini, our senses are heightened. Kyle explains that being on a bike sharpens our instincts, something we often forget in the comfort and safety of a safari truck. Kaziikini Camp, owned by the local Sankuyo community, offers a more rustic experience compared to traditional luxury lodges. With small dome tents and tin bucket showers, we truly feel connected to the natural surroundings. The scent of woodsmoke lingers in the water as we wash away the journey’s fatigue.
Sitting around the campfire that night, with the majestic Milky Way above us, we hear a thump from the darkness. Just 15 meters away, a herd of elephants moves silently, their presence felt rather than seen. Later, the night is filled with the eerie calls of hyenas and the deep roar of a lion, reminding us of the wildness that surrounds us. In this vast wilderness, wildlife knows no boundaries, freely wandering between official reserves and community lands.
Our adventure continues for the next four days, riding through lagoons, grass plains, and mopane forests alongside the Moremi Game Reserve. Dusk brings traditional game drives, complete with refreshing G&Ts. For the last two nights, we shift to a more luxurious lodge in the Khwai Private Reserve. Each morning, as the rose-gold dawn breaks the horizon, we embark on our rides. Kyle leads the way with a GPS route-plotter and a rifle for safety. Communication is minimal, only through hand signals to maintain stealth and avoid disturbing the wildlife.
Most of our journey is on hard elephant trails, a result of centuries of herds plodding between waterholes. Every crack of a branch or screech of a bird seems significant in this new context. Riding a bike heightens our senses, allowing us to assess and evade potential risks. And it’s not just the animals at the waterholes we need to worry about; it’s what might be hunting nearby. On two wheels, the primal drama of safari unfolds – the choice to fight or flee becomes starkly clear.
As we approach a waterhole, we find ourselves among a breeding herd of elephants, their majestic presence awe-inspiring. Botswana’s successful conservation efforts have made it a haven for elephants, boasting a population of approximately 130,000, the largest in any country. It’s moments like these that remind us of the privilege of cycling in community lands, away from the crowded reserves. When the herd moves on, a dawdling teenager creates a commotion, crashing through the bushes and trumpeting loudly.
Our second day takes us through open forests and flowing single-track trails, with sunlight filtering through the canopy. We encounter bull elephants along the way and even catch the sound of a honeyguide bird leading us to a bee’s nest, a fascinating example of nature’s symbiotic relationships.
This cycling safari offers a unique perspective, allowing us to immerse ourselves in the Okavango Delta, experiencing the wilderness in a way that fosters a deep connection to nature. The luxury here lies not in opulent decor and infinity pools but in the rawness of the surroundings and the thrill of encountering wildlife on their terms. It’s an adventure that reminds us of our place in the natural world and the importance of preserving these habitats for generations to come.
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