Approaching the castle, the ambiance was akin to a medieval procession. Ushers gracefully guided opera enthusiasts down the scenic cobbled streets and over the bridge, which earlier in the day had swung open to welcome our sail into Savonlinna. This annual music festival, held in the 15th-century Olavinlinna fortress on an island in Finland’s enchanting south-eastern lake district, is renowned for its uniqueness.
Traditionally, the seating at this festival has been reminiscent of medieval times. Rather than a princess-and-the-pea scenario, it is more for hardcore opera buffs who willingly endure sitting on wooden benches or hard chairs for three or more hours. However, in recent years, improvements were made to enhance accessibility and comfort. As you ascend the maze of stone staircases to the auditorium, you now find yourself seated on softer chairs with improved views of the stage. Additionally, an awning was added last year to protect spectators from unexpected downpours.
This year’s program boasts a combination of remarkable operatic experiences. A double bill of Bartók’s Bluebeard’s Castle and Outi Tarkiainen’s A Room of One’s Own offers a fusion of Hungarian symbolism and Virginia Woolf’s feminist masterpiece. Other operas include Romeo and Juliet, The Magic Flute, and The Barber of Seville. For those seeking a more mainstream experience, the festival also features the musical Fiddler on the Roof and a pop concert by Katie Melua. What sets these performances apart is the dramatic utilization of the fortress’s thick stone ramparts, which create an all-enveloping atmosphere that no traditional opera house can replicate.
While the opera festival is undeniably unique, Savonlinna also offers an extraordinary opportunity to embark on a picturesque lake cruise. Finland, known for its abundance of lakes (nearly 200,000 in total), makes Savonlinna an ideal starting point for such an adventure. A comfortable four-hour ride on a double-decker train from Helsinki takes you to this captivating destination. Upon arrival, everything is conveniently within walking distance, including the assortment of crafts lining the quayside.
Savonlinna offers 15 different lake cruises, primarily available from June to August. Whether you opt for a short €15 trip or a multi-night stay, there is a cruise to suit every preference. Choose between a historic steamship, a motor cruiser, or one of the newly introduced electric eco boats. Accompanied by my parents, we embarked on a two-day round trip aboard one of the traditional crafts. Inside the comfortable salon, we indulged in coffee and pastries while marveling at the breathtaking landscape. Navigating through narrow, rocky channels and occasionally losing sight of the shore, we discovered the inherent beauty of Lake Saimaa, with its 14,000 islands adorned by charming red and white summer houses. As the sun graced the scene, swimmers materialized, tentatively descending ladders into the water before swiftly retreating to nearby saunas to warm up again.
During a simple and affordable lunch featuring a delicious salmon dish, we eagerly scanned the surroundings for fellow fish enthusiasts – seals. The Saimaa ringed seal, one of only three species of freshwater seals, can still be found here, remnants of the ice age that shaped this rugged landscape. The journey continued, and soon enough, the captivating fragrance of an early supper enticed us as we caught a glimpse of the tower of Kuopio, home to a revolving restaurant providing a bird’s-eye view of the timeless Finnish summer landscape.
For those seeking a detour on the return route, a visit to the Orthodox monastery at Valamo is a worthy choice. Alternatively, take a break at Savonlinna and explore nearby attractions like Punkaharju, a land spit housing Lusto, a surprisingly enjoyable forestry museum that showcases Finland’s pioneering sustainable practices. Another option is Kerimäki, home to the world’s largest Christian wooden church.
If you desire additional excitement during your lake cruise, consider embarking on a bike ride. The popular Kerma canal to Savonlinna route caters to cyclists, and many boats offer bike transport for a small fee. Finland’s right to roam policy empowers individuals to partake in most outdoor activities, as long as they maintain a respectful distance from residential areas.
This strong connection with nature is central to Finnish happiness, as demonstrated by their continuous ranking at the top of the world’s happiness report for six consecutive years. Finnish doctors attest that a mere 15 to 20 minutes spent in the lush forest – home to bears, elk, wolves, and lynx – can effectively lower blood pressure and enhance mood.
Returning to the boat after such tranquility, we were greeted by a calm atmosphere, even while navigating through menacing rapids. The sight of anglers wading through waist-deep water and kayakers following their leader into locks provided a serene contrast. Even the robust tugs pulling lengthy timber rafts seemed to succumb to the river’s current, rendering them immobile.
Following such peace, the bustling ambiance of Savonlinna seemed almost overwhelming upon our return. As we strolled along the harborfront, a soprano performed an afternoon recital, harkening back to a more structured existence. I took the opportunity to have a refreshing dip in Saimaa’s clear, dark waters, reminiscent of the seals that frequent the lake. Hastily returning to the hotel, where an ensuite sauna awaited, I prepared for the next cultural immersion – the thrill of another captivating opera performance.
The Savonlinna opera festival, occurring from July 1st to 30th, offers an unforgettable experience. Travelers can conveniently reach Savonlinna from Helsinki by train, with a transfer at Parikkala. For more detailed information, please visit visitfinland.com.
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