“Mamma Mia!,” Meryl Streep’s heartfelt words echo in my mind as we drive down a rustic road, flanked by goats and olive trees, towards Kefalos beach. Glancing over at my daughter, with her rosy cheeks, sun-kissed hair, and phone constantly in hand, I’m overwhelmed with emotion, causing tears to involuntarily stream down my face.
“Are you actually crying, Mum?” my daughter, Lola, chuckles. “You’re so sentimental!”
Indeed, I’m soft-hearted to the point where I have to pull over and compose myself. Never before has a song resonated with me as strongly as this one.
Now, my daughters Lola and Nancy are 17 years old, embarking on their first year of sixth-form college. Their lives revolve around their friends and having fun, as they should. However, while I encourage their independence, I can’t help but worry that our once strong bond may be on the verge of breaking.
These past few years have been challenging. I’ve gone through a separation from their father, and both girls have struggled with anxiety and depression in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic. Last summer, I took all three of my children – Lola, Nancy, and their brother Angus – to Rome. It was a wonderful holiday, but the kids constantly bickered and fought for my attention. With three children, it’s difficult to provide each one with the undivided focus they desire and deserve. And when it comes to twins, the competition for attention can be particularly fierce.
I’ve discovered that one-on-one time is crucial for nurturing our relationship and their overall well-being. We’re not the only ones who recognize this; mother-daughter trips have become increasingly popular among Lola’s friends. Just last year, I went on a work trip to Stockholm with my 21-year-old son, Angus, and it brought us closer than ever before.
Lola has always been captivated by Greece ever since she watched Mamma Mia! at the age of six. So, when I suggested a short Easter getaway, Greece was at the top of her list. (Nancy’s next.) I found an affordable hotel in Kos Town, and before we know it, we’re living our own Greek dream with the film’s iconic soundtrack as our backdrop. April is the perfect time to visit Kos; the third largest island in the Dodecanese, it’s already warm and inviting. We settle into a charming routine: I rise early and lose myself in a novel on the balcony overlooking the sea, while Lola emerges from bed much later, just in time for breakfast. We leisurely explore the town, shopping for silver jewelry and trinkets for her friends, pausing for coffee and Cokes in picturesque bougainvillea-covered cafes. We savor the liveliness of Kos Town.
We alternate between different beaches, explore quaint towns, and enjoy Greek salad and chips at waterfront restaurants, where attentive septuagenarian waiters flutter around us. We try our best with basic Greek phrases – often only managing to say “kalimera” (good morning) and “efcharisto” (thank you) – and Lola gets to witness me in a state of serenity, as an individual with interests beyond just being her mother. Without the distractions of her friends, Lola begins to open up to me about her life. We discuss her friendships, boys, college, and for a brief moment, I catch a glimpse of the world through the eyes of a seventeen-year-old. I wait for her to broach the subject of her parents’ separation, ready to offer reassurance if needed, but she remains quiet about it. I’m not sure if I’m relieved or disappointed.
A short ten-minute drive north of Kos Town leads us to Thermes beach, where we bathe in mineral-rich thermal waters within a natural sea pool. Kefalos, on the southeast coast, quickly becomes our favorite beach. We have these sandy shores all to ourselves, immersing ourselves in the cool, crystal-clear waters of the Aegean Sea.
Back when my children were young, our vacations looked quite different. The focus was solely on keeping all three of them content, well-fed, and entertained, often with their father and I taking turns to relax by the pool. Now, my daughter and I engage in conversations like adults while we soak up the sun.
After an enjoyable shopping spree, Lola expresses the desire to explore further. Kos is renowned as the birthplace of Hippocrates, the ancient healer who imparted his knowledge beneath the grand plane tree on Plateia Platanou. We meander through the ancient agora, marvel at the remnants of the old town, and visit the Odeon of Kos amphitheater. I even manage to persuade Lola to spend an hour at Asclepieion, just outside Kos Town. Built in 357 BC, this expansive medical school and healing center represents the island’s most famous archaeological site.
During dinner at a charming taverna, we effortlessly chat about my work, her friendships, and our silly dog, all while savoring smoky souvlaki and fries. Lola holds passionate opinions about everything from politics to K-pop. We bond over our shared love for Taylor Swift, and she excitedly discusses her plans (along with my concerns) for attending the Reading festival this summer. When a charismatic young waiter offers us complimentary ouzo, she looks at me mischievously and says, “Go on, Mum – I’m almost 18,” a sparkle dancing in her eyes.
Observing the remarkable young woman my daughter is becoming fills me with awe and a tinge of nostalgia. Time has passed by in the blink of an eye. The song “Slipping Through My Fingers” by Abba has transformed into our shared joke throughout the trip, with Lola playing it just to prompt me to cry.
Since it’s offseason, Bar Street – the vibrant nightlife hub of Kos Town – remains closed, much to my relief but Lola’s disappointment. Instead, I treat her to her “first cocktail” at H2O, a stunning sunset bar situated right by the sea wall, as she enthusiastically declares her intentions to return post-A-Levels to work here.
Over a few days in Kos, I catch a glimpse of the incredible adult Lola is becoming, and it brings me immense joy to witness her spreading her wings. I’d love for these one-on-one trips – or even trips with all three children – to become an annual tradition. Especially if I foot the bill. As we journey back home, my exhausted daughter rests her head on my shoulder. Despite her growth, I know that her sappy mum will always be here for a comforting embrace.
For an off-season escape, book a stay at the Infinity Hotel in Kos Town, available on booking.com, offering twin rooms starting at £50 per night, including breakfast. Car hire from Kos Airport was graciously provided by Hertz. For more information on beautiful Kos, visit discovergreece.com.
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