In 1955, the gray flannel suit became a symbol of the monotonous corporate life thanks to Sloan Wilson’s novel. Since then, it has carried a negative connotation. However, Thom Browne, a New York designer, has been working to change this perception for the past two decades. He started by altering the proportions of men’s suits, then by breaking gender boundaries, and finally by creating numerous variations of the gray suit. Now, he has taken it even further by proposing that the gray suit deserves the same prestige as iconic couture pieces from Chanel, YSL, and Dior. Browne champions American fashion, rooted in American culture, and believes it has a place in the world of couture.
The recent couture shows in Paris were held amidst national unrest and protests against police brutality and discrimination. Despite concerns about the appropriateness of the events, fashion industry leaders argued that fashion is representative of French economic and artistic strength. However, the dichotomy between protests and extravagant fashion shows added a new layer of tension and scrutiny to the collections.
The shows provided not only escape and beauty, but also something more impactful. For example, Daniel Roseberry’s collection for Schiaparelli explored the connection between art and fashion, past and present. His collection reflected the human experience and the act of creation. Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior presented a collection inspired by Greek and Roman antiquity, evoking a sense of strength and power. Iris Van Herpen imagined a future where a waterborne city becomes a necessity due to climate change, creating garments inspired by the underwater world.
Thom Browne’s couture debut also conveyed a story. Set at the Palais Garnier, the collection paid homage to the 1980 song “Fade to Grey” by Visage. It showcased 58 iterations of gray suits, each one intricately designed and referencing various elements of New England, from marine life to Cape Cod landscapes. Browne successfully transformed the anonymous gray suit into a symbol of individuality and self-expression.
Overall, the couture shows in Paris proved that fashion can be more than just luxury and escapism. They provided social commentary, celebrated artistry, and offered a glimpse into a visionary future.
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