The Ducati Trail? My husband was suddenly filled with excitement. “Do we get to ride motorbikes?” I had to explain that the “Ducati” in Sentiero dei Ducati, a new hiking route promoted by Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, refers not to the high-performance bikes made nearby, but to the medieval duchies that once ruled north and central Italy. And instead of cruising on sleek motorcycles, we would be trekking along centuries-old footpaths that connected ducal territories in this hilly region rising to the Apennines.
The Via degli Dei, Central Italy’s most well-known walk, has become overcrowded with about 300 people a day taking on the 80-mile route between Bologna and Florence. However, the Sentiero dei Ducati, located further northwest, promised solitude, quiet paths, and untouched wilderness. Starting in the charming Reggio Emilia, a lesser-known neighbor of Parma and Modena, the trail spans 125 miles to Sarzana, near the Ligurian coast.
To plan our trek, we consulted the website sentierodeiducati.it, which provides GPS, transportation, and accommodation information (doubles from €70). For a touch of luxury before embarking on our adventure, we decided to stay at the 16th-century guesthouse of the Venturini Baldini wine estate, located south of Reggio. Though a bit pricey, it provided easy access to the trail, as a path from the estate’s gates connected to the Roncolo country park. For a more affordable option, La Maddalena restaurant in nearby Quattro Castella offers rooms from €80 B&B.
After just a few miles of off-road walking through lush green hills, we encountered the woman who would become the central figure of our journey: Matilda of Canossa. With her red hair and powerful presence, she ruled over territories that stretched from Lombardy to Tuscany, similar to Elizabeth I. In fact, the Italian phrase for “eat humble pie” is “andare a [go to] Canossa,” after the time in 1077 when Holy Roman Emperor Henry IV sought peace with the pope in an agreement brokered by Matilda.
Bianello castle, the only remaining castle of the four that once stood on a row of hills, allowed Matilda’s army to control vast lands. These hilltop beacons functioned as a medieval internet, allowing messages to be transmitted to Tuscany within 15 minutes.
However, what fascinated me the most was the production of balsamic vinegar within the castle. Though the commercial product is now sold worldwide, these hills are its birthplace. The non-profit Balsamic Vinegar Brotherhood uses the castle’s attics to create vinegar using traditional methods. We followed master Giancarlo up the winding stairs, the aroma growing stronger with each step. The first mention of the area’s precious vinegar dates back to a 12th-century poem by the monk Donizo of Canossa, Matilda’s biographer.
These attic rooms were once used as jail cells, oppressive in the summer and freezing in the winter to torment prisoners. However, these fluctuating temperatures contribute to the vinegar’s density and unique character. Giancarlo showed us rows of barrels in decreasing sizes, explaining how the juice is pressed, fermented, and then poured into the largest barrel, with its small opening at the top. Over the years, it is transferred to smaller barrels made of different woods as the “angel’s share” evaporates. Oak, chestnut, cherry, acacia, and mulberry all impart their own flavors. (And unsurprisingly, a juniper barrel provides a hint of gin.)
A red label denotes 12-year-old vinegar, silver for 25 years, and gold for 50 years. When we tasted the 25-year version, its complex flavors burst forth, reminiscent of plum, treacle, chocolate, and a slight smokiness. We couldn’t resist bringing a small bottle with us in our backpack.
Balsamic vinegar from the Reggio province is just as authentic as that from Modena but less acidic. It is commonly enjoyed with cured or grilled meats, fish, or chunks of parmesan, as well as in salads. The Balsamic Vinegar Brotherhood is dedicated to preserving the tradition, even repairing people’s leaking barrels and purchasing them from those who no longer have the time or inclination. “We can’t leave it to commercial producers who churn out thousands of liters a day,” Giancarlo explained.
The trail, marked with “SD” and a castle symbol, takes us south from this point to the ruined Canossa castle. A steady climb from there led us to the summit of Monte Tesa, 690 meters high, and a picturesque meadow with panoramic views of the Apennines to the south and the Po Valley to the north, stretching all the way to the Alps. Wild cyclamen peeked from the grass at our feet.
Our guide, Matteo, shared that during medieval times, people preferred to live in higher areas due to the dense forests and malarial swamps found in the plains. Nowadays, these uplands are abandoned, while the plains are teeming with towns, farms, and factories.
The days of our trek took us from rolling foothills to towering mountains. The only person we encountered was an elderly woman collecting mushrooms. In the sunny September weather, the paths were clear and easy to follow, often winding along ridges with breathtaking views in all directions. However, due to the pristine wilderness, shops and restaurants were few and far between, necessitating the need for packed lunches. As for accommodations, wild camping is legal in most of Emilia-Romagna between sunset and dawn, as long as it is at least 200 meters away from an official campsite.
The COVID-19 pandemic brought an end to some remote businesses that catered to travelers, but it has also led to an increase in tourism jobs, slowly rejuvenating mountain communities. Tax incentives and funding are available for new businesses in these areas. Previously abandoned villages, such as Vercallo, now offer holiday rentals and e-bike rentals. In Barazzone, the social project Libera Osteria serves revered local dinners on weekends, featuring dishes like wild mushroom soup, filled pasta, and hare braised with olives.
For our second night, we veered a few miles off the trail to Madonna della Corte, an agriturismo where Matilda herself seems to preside. Elisa Montruccoli, the owner, often portrays the lady in historical reenactments. She and her husband organize medieval evenings complete with music, feasting, and a special appearance by the “queen.” Our feast included chard on toast, cured meats and cheeses with chili sauce and gooseberry chutney, mushroom risotto, and roast pork.
The following days took us deeper into the mountains. The only person we encountered was the elderly mushroom collector we had seen before. When I asked her if she had a productive day, she sadly shook her head and said, “Poco, poco.” Matteo smiled and explained that country folk never admit to knowing the best spots for mushrooms, and she probably had kilos.
After a climb that made our ears pop, we followed a high-level path through a breathtaking beech forest intersected by easily fordable streams, thanks to late summer weather. We were the only humans for miles, with no signs of human activity. The sunlight cast a golden glow, and the only footprints belonged to deer. The scent of beech mast beneath our feet was rich and sweet.
At 1,131 meters high, we arrived at Rigoso, a village that was once dying but has been revitalized with funds from the EU and Unesco, as well as the efforts of a community cooperative. We enjoyed a lunch in the village square, savoring local cheese and sausage, followed by testaroli pasta (diamond-shaped pancakes) with pesto. Manuela Gaiani, vice-president of the Corte di Rigoso cooperative, shared how seven locals joined forces to reopen the village shop, which managed to survive the challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic. Rigoso now boasts two B&Bs and a bar/restaurant.
From this point, it was mostly downhill towards the trail’s end in Sarzana, where we would catch trains back to La Spezia and finally return home. We had managed to escape the crowds and experience a different side of Italy – untouched, occasionally struggling, but always hopeful. It would have been a disservice to this beautiful journey to traverse it on motorcycles.
Note: The trip was arranged by the Emilia Romagna tourist board.
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