Creating a Flavorful Ketchup Using Overripe Tomatoes | Exploring the World of Sauces and Gravies

I
have spent nearly two decades perfecting the recipe I’m about to share with you. It all started back in 2004 when I opened my festival cafe, Poco. Over the years, I’ve made improvements to the recipe, and now we even ferment it, which not only preserves the food but also enhances its flavor and adds complexity and umami. This is especially important in a field kitchen where refrigeration is limited.

This recipe is a great way to make use of an abundance of ripe and flavorful tomatoes or transform unripe and tasteless tomatoes into something delicious. Keep an eye out for discounted bags of ripe tomatoes at the market, as they are currently in season.

When fermenting food, it’s crucial to ensure it is properly salted to create an environment suitable for beneficial bacteria to thrive. While some fermented foods have lower salt content, a safe ratio is typically 2% salt to the weight of the other ingredients.

Lacto-fermented harissa ketchup

Harissa is a delicious but extremely spicy sauce. My version, made with ripe tomatoes, helps mellow the heat and allows for generous application. We serve this ketchup at Poco Cafe with slow-roast lamb kebabs and in halloumi wraps. It’s also a fantastic addition to brunch or any dish that calls for a little spicy ketchup. You can use it to preserve an abundance of ripe tomatoes or to enhance the flavor of unripe ones. Adjust the amount of chillies based on your desired level of spice, using between 100g to 200g. If you prefer a milder sauce, start with 100g and add extra chilli flakes to your dish for more heat.

Makes approximately 900g

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 small red onion (about 70g), roughly chopped
4 large garlic cloves, peeled
2 tbsp cider vinegar
3½ tsp sea salt
2 tsp sugar
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp smoked paprika
2 tsp caraway seeds
1kg very ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
100g or 200g red chillies (for a mild or medium-hot sauce)
1 red bell pepper (about 150g)

Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for five minutes. Then add the garlic, vinegar, salt, sugar, cumin, smoked paprika, and caraway. Continue to fry and stir for an additional two minutes. Add the tomatoes, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes or until the mixture is reduced by half.

Meanwhile, in a dry frying pan, char the chillies and bell pepper. Flip them to char on all sides until blistered and softened.

Remove the stalks from the chillies and pepper, then blend them with the spiced tomatoes in a blender until you achieve a smooth yet textured sauce. Transfer the sauce to clean bottles or jars, leaving the lids loosely placed on top. Allow the mixture to ferment at room temperature for four to 14 days, or until bubbles start to form. Store the ketchup in a cool, dark cupboard or the fridge for three to six months.