The rainbow-checked scarf arrives promptly via postal service, packaged in a Ziploc bag. The tag displays the name “Acne Studios,” a renowned high-end Swedish label, but something seems off about the wording. To confirm my suspicion, I send a photo of the tag to a friend who is a typographer. “It’s quite obvious that it’s a fake,” she confirms. “Look at the inconsistent fonts used for the letters e and s.” Curiosity piqued, I inspect the washing label inside the scarf. It advises to “dry clean only.” As I squeeze the fabric, it feels authentic, resembling the luxurious combination of bouncy wool and mohair found in a genuine £250 scarf. However, my suspicions are confirmed; it is indeed a counterfeit item. Not surprisingly, considering the mere £22 I spent on it. I decide to email the seller, pointing out the discrepancies, but receive no response.
This is not the first time I have unknowingly purchased a counterfeit item. In my twenties, I visited Vietnam and returned with a “Chanel” 2.55 handbag and two “Kipling” holdalls from the famous Ben Thanh market in Ho Chi Minh City known for its affordable knockoffs. Before that, when I was 18, I bought “Ralph Lauren” shirts with poorly positioned jockey logos from Bangkok’s MBK Center. Although I recognized these items as obvious fakes, I fell prey to the allure of a bargain with the rainbow-checked scarf. I had been deceived.
It is estimated that around one-third of consumers in the UK have unknowingly or knowingly purchased counterfeit goods. Counterfeiting is second only to the illegal drug trade in terms of criminal profits. In 2021 alone, authorities seized 42 million counterfeit items at UK borders, of which 3 million fell under the category of fashion and accessories, according to the Anti-Counterfeiting Group (ACG), a not-for-profit trade organization. These numbers, however, likely represent only a fraction of the total counterfeit goods entering the country. Since the UK’s departure from the EU, there has been a noticeable decrease in regulation, allowing counterfeit goods to enter the market more freely. Phil Lewis, the director general of the ACG, laments that people often believe only brands suffer as a result of counterfeit goods, without considering the wider implications. “They just don’t care,” he sighs.
Counterfeit fashion not only harms the conglomerates but also has deeper connections to human trafficking, labor exploitation, and child labor. It doesn’t take Europol to recognize these connections, as stated by Olivia Windham Stewart, a human rights specialist. The true human cost behind a fake Birkin bag, for example, is significant yet often hidden from view.
In an attempt to uncover more information, I log into the website where I purchased the scarf, only to find four more counterfeit items listed. Another website has three additional counterfeit items. I feel embarrassed. Considering how effortless it is to purchase counterfeit goods – no regulations, inspections, or background checks – the actual number of counterfeit goods changing hands is likely much higher than the reported 3 million. How can one distinguish between what is genuine and what is fake? Can anyone truly be certain?
Bill Porter extends his hand and warmly greets me, “Welcome to Crawley.” Porter oversees logistics at Vestiaire Collective’s warehouse, which is located in a nondescript former electrical warehouse near Gatwick. The building lacks windows and signage. It’s strategically situated near the airport for practical reasons, while also maintaining anonymity due to the staggering value of luxury goods stored within its walls.
In 2019, I began shopping for secondhand clothing online, initially on eBay and later on Vestiaire Collective. The French fashion platform, established in 2009, specializes in selling secondhand clothing globally. It started with a few small purchases, such as Grenson loafers for £50 and a Helmut Lang tuxedo jacket for £20. Gradually, I began relying on Vestiaire Collective for all my fashion needs. Aware of the risks associated with online shopping for designer goods, Vestiaire Collective took proactive measures to combat counterfeit items. Buyers could opt to have their purchases directly shipped to them or pay an additional £15 fee to have an expert authenticate the item before shipping. This service, initially launched in France, expanded to the UK as counterfeit items proliferated.
The interior of Vestiaire Collective’s warehouse in Crawley resembles a spotlessly clean crime scene. Grey lino divides the floor into sections, marked by colored tape. The ceiling-high racks hold thousands of designer items, such as Marc Jacobs bags, Jimmy Choo heels, and Louis Vuitton purses. Burberry coats and plush Self-Portrait dresses adorn the racks at the front. Every morning, large vans deliver these items to the bustling warehouse through a corrugated side door. The cacophony is occasionally interrupted by a short, sharp alarm as a new delivery arrives. During these brief moments, the 23 workers pause and resume their tasks only after the door is securely locked. This is where the dedicated team of counterfeit hunters carries out their work.
Vestiaire Collective employs a total of 60 counterfeit hunters across various locations, including Hong Kong, Seoul, Brooklyn, and France. Initially, much of the processing is automated, but the authentication process requires specialized human expertise. Approximately 70% of incoming items undergo authentication, and up to 2% are identified as counterfeit. Justine Bammez, the head authenticator in Crawley, acknowledges that individuals selling counterfeit goods would typically avoid listing them on Vestiaire Collective. However, the presence of counterfeit items persists.
Each counterfeit hunter at Vestiaire Collective possesses their unique methodology, background, and extraordinary skills. For example, Mayra Afzal, who used to work with aeroplanes, brings her expertise in mechanics and quality control to the job. She gained extensive experience working with brands like Rolex and Omega, refining her abilities in identifying minute details. Afzal’s precision and attention to detail can be likened to sorcery as she expertly examines watches, detecting any abnormalities with a single touch or a listen. Justine Bammez, on the other hand, oversees the operation in a composed manner, drawing upon her background in art history.
When the warehouse first opened in January 2022, it received an average of 30 packages per day. However, as the year progresses, they anticipate the daily influx of packages to reach up to 1,000 by Christmas. The holiday seasons tend to drive higher shopping volumes, such as the day following the spring bank holiday when 700 items arrived in a single day. The warehouse’s capacity is thoroughly tested during these peaks, but so far, it has proven successful in handling the increasing demands.
Owning a counterfeit item can sometimes be seen as a rebellious act, a symbolic gesture against the conglomerates that fuel consumer desire. No two counterfeit hunters are the same, each possessing their specialized skills and unique approaches. Mayra Afzal’s mechanical expertise and magpie-like sensibilities make her adept at spotting discrepancies while appreciating the intricacies of genuine luxury items. Meanwhile, Justine Bammez calmly steers the authentication operations with her knowledge of art history.
At Vestiaire Collective’s Crawley warehouse, a dedicated team of counterfeit hunters diligently comb through thousands of items, striving to authenticate each one accurately. Their efforts contribute to protecting consumers from purchasing counterfeit goods unwittingly. However, the battle against counterfeiting continues, requiring ongoing vigilance, expertise, and a commitment to upholding the integrity of the fashion industry.
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