Cool Altitude: Discovering Mountain Retreats in the Austrian Tirol | Travel

A magnificent wooden swimming jetty protrudes into the stunning emerald green waters of Achensee, the largest lake in the Austrian Tirol. As you look out, you can see white-sailed dinghies gracefully gliding across the water, carried by a gentle mountain breeze. If you endured the scorching heatwave of last summer on a crowded beach or watched the temperatures soar above 40 degrees in the Mediterranean, it’s likely that you found yourself daydreaming about a scene just like this.

Unfortunately, the icy chill of the lake prevents us from jumping off the jetty, so we retreat to the rooftop infinity pool at Atoll Achensee. This dazzling lakeside leisure complex resembles an exclusive spa retreat, with its sweeping white curves and breathtaking mountain views. The best part? You can spend half a day here, enjoying the indoor and outdoor pools, whirl pools, sauna, and sun terraces, for just a few euros more than what it would cost to swim in a regular pool back home. And that’s not the only great value you’ll find in the Tirol. During the summer, many hotels, like the Sonnenhof in Pertisau, offer enticing half-board packages.

The following morning, we embark on a drive to Gramai Alm, a charming guesthouse that serves as a base for exploring the magnificent limestone peaks of the Karwendel mountains. We opt for a leisurely circular walk that takes us to a picturesque waterfall and offers tantalizing glimpses of the lake far below. Afterward, we indulge in a traditional Tirolean noodle dish called käsespätzle, which is generously smothered in melted cheese and fried onions. We find a nearby hammock and drift off to sleep, serenaded by the melodic jingling of cowbells swaying in the nearby pasture. Leaving this idyllic spot proves challenging, but we bid a reluctant farewell to the resident goats and make our way back down the mountain for a 45-minute drive to our next destination.

Located high in the Kitzbühel Alps, Wildschönau is a tranquil valley with rolling green pastures dotted with picturesque farmhouses adorned with vibrant red and pink geraniums. Within moments of arriving at Hotel Wastlhof in Niederau, a friendly family-run establishment, we find ourselves whisked away in a cable car to the top of Markbachjoch mountain for a short yet awe-inspiring walk to a small chapel boasting magnificent views. Every guest staying in the valley receives a Wildschönau card, granting complimentary or discounted access to local attractions, as well as enabling the use of cable cars, lifts, and buses. This makes it incredibly convenient, even for beginners and families, to experience jaw-dropping scenery.

The next morning, we climb aboard the charmingly named Bummelzug road-train from Oberau. This leisurely ride takes us through forests and meadows at a relaxed pace until we reach the Kundler Klamm, a steep limestone gorge that offers one of the most satisfying (and accessible) walks in the region. As we follow the course of the Wildschönau river as it carves its way through the canyon, we are treated to a breathtaking natural spectacle. The road-train drops us back in Oberau just in time for a late lunch at the Thalmuehle, a charming inn adorned with flowers and exuding Tirolean charm, where we savor a delicious brezenzuppe (pretzel and cheese soup).

Wildschönau is known for its dairy farms, so one of the highlights of our week is a visit to the dairy farm at Schönanger Alm. Here, we meet master cheesemaker Johann Schönauer, who takes us on a tour and a tasting of his expertly crafted tilsiter and emmental cheeses. It’s evident that the locals take their cheese seriously, especially as these varieties are being prepared for the Mountain Cheese Olympics. Since we are the last visitors of the day, Johann treats us to a shot of Krautinger, a potent schnapps made exclusively in the local villages from white turnips.

On our final day, we take a cable car up to the Schatzberg mountain to attend a Tirolean music festival. As we arrive, it becomes clear that we missed the memo to come dressed as the von Trapp family. In an idyllic Alpine meadow, a brass band plays traditional Austrian folk tunes while couples dressed in lederhosen and dirndls gracefully move through elaborate set dances. Waitresses wander around, carrying trays overflowing with beer for the enthusiastic audience swaying and singing along to the music on wooden picnic benches. The atmosphere is one of infectious joy and camaraderie. The woman next to me insists that I join the queue for schmalznudel, delightfully light doughnuts served with cranberries. “Once you try schmalznudel,” she assures me, “you’ll want to come back to Wildschönau.” Intrigued, I obediently join the line.

Heart of the Alps
For more Tirolean resorts and Alpine attractions to explore during the summer, consider visiting the medieval town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber in Bavaria, Germany. Embark on a Bavarian Wander with Inntravel and discover the lakes, mountains, and castles of southern Germany. Packages start at £1,765 per person, including seven nights’ bed and breakfast at the Biohotel Eggensberger and return rail travel from London.

Another option is the Austrian spa resort of Bad Gastein, where you can recharge your batteries at the newly opened Comodo. This luxurious design hotel offers a wellness center, midcentury decor, and breathtaking views of the High Tauern mountains. Double rooms start at £142 per night.

In Morzine, France, you’ll find a ski resort that remains vibrant year-round. VIP SKI offers several chalets, including the Valdez Suite, a two-bedroom chalet located just 100 meters from the Super Morzine bubble lift. Enjoy seven nights of self-catering in July from £385 per person, based on four sharing. Flights are not included.

For a truly indulgent experience, visit Ortisei in the Italian Dolomites, where you’ll find the luxurious wellbeing hotel, Gardena Grödnerhof. Located in Ortisei, the hotel is just moments away from a cable car that takes you up to the Alpe di Siusi, the largest Alpine plateau in Europe. After a day of exploring peaks, trails, and wildflower meadows, unwind in the hotel’s fabulous spa. Double rooms start at £290, including breakfast.

During my travels, I worked with the Tirol Tourist Board and Achensee Tourismus. I would highly recommend staying at Hotel Sonnenhof Achensee, starting at £280 for two people on a half-board basis. Another great option is Hotel Wastlhof in Niederau, with rates starting at £204 per room, including breakfast.

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