“Oh, I’m afraid I don’t own a microwave,” that individual lacking a microwave might say, their judgment lacing their words like a delicate dusting of icing sugar on a microwave mug cake. Inevitably, they follow this statement with a subtle humblebrag: “Call me old-fashioned, but I’ve simply never found a need for one.” They utilize their oven to bake cakes, reheat leftovers on the stove, and eschew ready meals, which they consider to be the microwave’s sole purpose. It matters not that Waitrose’s recent cooking trends report reveals a 13% increase in microwave sales at John Lewis compared to last year, making it this year’s most popular kitchen gadget among survey respondents. For this person, not owning a microwave is as integral to their personal brand as consuming natural wine and riding a fixie.
Of all the impassioned opinions about household appliances, this one captivates me the most. After all, nobody gets worked up about kettles. I, too, lack a toaster for practical reasons – my kitchen is too petite. Yet, I don’t feel inclined to make a fuss about it; I simply burn my bread under the grill. While gadgets like spiralizers and juicers once sparked some controversy, their fervor faded like passing trends. I suspect the same will be true for the current coveted appliance, the air fryer. Nearly six decades since microwaves entered the market, however, discussions surrounding them still carry a moral weight, particularly among food enthusiasts who view beeps, buttons, and a “chaos defrost” setting as anathema to the essence of “good” food.
On one hand, I understand the sentiment, as microwaves were associated with subpar cooking for many years. The gadget rose to popularity in the late 1970s and led to a wave of microwave cookbooks that advocated for zapping everything from French toast to roast beef. During my dad’s years as a single parent, he microwaved scrambled eggs, which my brother and I enjoyed at the time but still remember their dense texture. Then came the 1980s and its heavily processed ready meals, which rightfully led to the tarnishing of the microwave’s reputation.
However, associating microwaves solely with ready meals demonstrates a mindset firmly rooted in the past. Real food enthusiasts know that microwaves make eating healthier and more convenient, not lazier. Consider lasagna, for instance. I refuse to endorse the notion that melted-then-solidified mozzarella and bechamel sauce improve when served cold from the refrigerator. Microwaves offer the best (quickest, tastiest, and most energy-efficient) method to reheat lasagna, restoring its oozy, bubbling goodness. When reheating food, particularly curries, stews, and pies, flavors that have had time to develop overnight emerge, a phenomenon referred to as “kokumi” or “rich taste” according to the Waitrose cooking report. Microwaves also retain the nutrients in greens while cooking them, making it a valuable tool beyond leftovers.
Like any story, this one is more nuanced than it initially appears, influenced by the passage of time and changing trends in food and society. Microwaves aren’t the root cause of ultra-processed foods; they are merely the conduit – and the issues extend far beyond “microwave meals.” As for my dad’s eggs, while they may not rival Delia Smith’s creations, they exemplify the microwave’s ability to assist individuals in navigating challenging circumstances. I think of my late grandpa, who, at 100 years old, was able to live independently thanks to the microwave and the convenience of Wiltshire Farm Foods ready meals. I think of my grandma, who prepared meals in advance for my working mother, allowing her to adequately feed us children while maintaining her career. I think of everyone on tight budgets and tight schedules, striving to minimize waste and maximize energy efficiency. On a lighter note, I think of myself and my preference for enjoying leftover hot food that remains hot the following day.
Therefore, I’m delighted with Waitrose’s report, which not only introduced me to a new term but also aids in changing the perception of my beloved yet much-maligned appliance. I am Clare – the wine-drinking, fixie-riding individual who proudly owns a microwave.
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