I
relocated to Khartoum, the vibrant capital of Sudan, when I was just five years old. From the moment I arrived, I developed an instant infatuation with the majestic river that winds through the city. The Nile provided one of the rare public spaces where one could escape the scorching heat. As a child, it was where I found my greatest joy, and as an adult, that love still remains.
The Halfaya Bridge, beautifully captured in this photo, is one of the newer bridges in the city. It serves as a vital connection between two of the capital’s primary neighborhoods: Omdurman, my hometown and current residence, and Bahri, situated on the east side of the Nile. Beneath the bridge, a quaint tea shop can be found, a common sight in this area. It is the perfect spot to pause, unwind, observe the world go by, and relish in the refreshing breeze wafting over the water. In Khartoum, the river is embraced as a public gathering place. People from all walks of life come here to socialize, converse, and enjoy the captivating view of the Nile. It has become a unifying space in a city that can often feel divided.
It took me several trips to capture this particular shot. My goal is for each of my photographs to convey the emotions I experienced in that moment. In this image, I aimed to convey the sense of time stretching infinitely before you, accompanied by an overwhelming feeling of peace and serenity. Although it is part of a series dedicated to documenting the river, I appreciate that this photo focuses more on the space it provides for human connections rather than the water itself. I took this shot roughly a year and a half ago. Recently, as I stumbled upon it again, a wave of nostalgia washed over me. Sadly, due to the conflict that erupted in the city a few months ago, these cherished spaces have been neglected and largely abandoned. It is now inconceivable to spend a leisurely afternoon there.
Khartoum is no longer the city we once knew. When I embarked on my river series, I aimed to document the city’s life in its truest form. However, that vision is now a part of history. Many individuals have fled, leaving places like this cafe empty and desolate. This photograph commemorates a happier time when peace still prevailed in Khartoum. Even if the conflict subsides, I doubt it will ever return to its former glory. What frightens me the most is that the fighting has transitioned from political disputes to tribal divisions, which are significantly more complex to resolve. It echoes the events that unfolded in Darfur, my birthplace, two decades ago. It feels as if we are trapped in a vicious cycle of history repeating itself.
I strongly believe that art has the power to address many of Sudan’s social issues. We need to open dialogues that explore both our differences and similarities as individuals. Numerous challenges in Sudan revolve around questions of identity, coexistence between different groups, and interactions among various social classes. Through my photography, I aspire to facilitate these conversations. The image I share here commemorates one of the places where such interactions were once possible.
As a self-taught photographer, my approach to capturing images has evolved significantly. I no longer focus solely on capturing the aesthetics of a scene; instead, I strive to evoke a specific emotion. Each photograph I take aims to encapsulate the essence of a place. Photography has transformed me into a keen observer of Khartoum. I now possess a deeper understanding of this city that holds my heart.
Being an African
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