The dining room at 64 Goodge Street is adorned with beautiful art by Louise Sheeran. These stunning line drawings add to the ambiance, creating a unique atmosphere that sets this restaurant apart. Unlike generic corporate prints, these artworks convey a sense of relaxation and enjoyment, perfectly reflecting the vibe of the place. As I was escorted to my table, a cozy corner arrangement with a charming wooden panel and frilly curtain, I couldn’t help but smile. And even as I perused the menu, I found myself pondering the reasons behind my immediate delight.
Woodhead, the renowned restaurant group led by Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau, is behind this latest venture. Having loved their previous establishments – The Quality Chop House, Portland, and Clipstone – I was excited to experience their take on a sophisticated French bistro. With such impressive pedigree, my expectations were high.
One might not expect Bayonne cured ham and celeriac remoulade to surprise and delight, as it’s a classic combination that has been seen countless times. However, I was pleasantly proven wrong. The ham had a remarkably fresh appearance, perfectly sliced and cared for, giving it a soft, velvety texture. Accompanied by a smooth remoulade and delicate capers, it was a dish impossible not to love.
Morteau, an unrefined sausage favored by French workmen, found an unexpected home in a dainty tourte. This pie-like creation, filled with creamy Morbier cheese, imparted a smoky, garlicky flavor that captivated the senses. The inclusion of walnuts added a subtle taste dimension, while the accompanying pickled onions and micro-frisée salad provided a delightful contrast. This dish was so charming it evoked childlike joy within me.
The saddle of lamb was a true savior. Each succulent, rare slice carried a masculine presence, perfectly complemented by crisp green beans and a sauce paloise. This particular variation of Béarnaise, incorporating mint instead of tarragon, brought a witty nod to both culinary history and cherished memories of family Sunday lunches. But what truly amazed me was the unmentioned layer of flavors hidden beneath the lamb. A rich reduction made from roasting juices and expertly fortified with a robust stock, it defied categorization, transcending both gravy and jus. Its depth was so remarkable that I couldn’t help but wonder if veal bone played a part in its creation.
These classic pan-sauce reductions, once forgotten, seem to be experiencing a renaissance in contemporary cuisine. It feels as if every young chef suddenly remembered their training and reintroduced demi-glace into their repertoire. As a self-proclaimed connoisseur of sticky sauces, I couldn’t be happier about this trend. Their anachronistic charm and luscious intensity never fail to impress. In fact, I firmly believe that any restaurant critic who doesn’t appreciate the allure of a sticky sauce can’t be trusted.
Have you noticed when people are interviewed on TV these days, they often falter, choke and say: “Sorry. I’m getting emotional”? They never specify what the emotion is, but it seems sufficient to have acknowledged that it overwhelmed them. When I saw a lobster vol-au-vent among the main courses at 64 Goodge St, I got emotional. In my case it was a very particular combination of nostalgia, greed and anticipation. Were I to be interviewed about it, I’d probably well up too. The deconstructed vol-au-vent, with a chunk of lobster and a disc of puff pastry separated by a pool of sauce Américaine, may have initially disappointed me. However, it provided a delightful interactive experience, allowing me to assemble each element on my fork and ultimately relish the flavors.
I must admit, I had never encountered truffade before, so I inquired about it from our knowledgeable waiter. As she described the combination of potatoes cooked in goose fat, mixed with tomme cheese and tantalizing lardons, I was completely captivated. It sounded like a heavenly amalgamation of all the best flavors. If only I could control my drooling, I might have asked for it to be liquidized and administered intravenously. While the vol-au-vent initially disappointed me, sitting in that stunning room, indulging in truffade, I would have forgiven the restaurant for serving me a microwaved lasagne.
64 Goodge Street exudes comfort and warmth, extending a welcoming embrace to its guests. Its elegant and plush interior, accompanied by tasteful lighting and genuine artworks, creates an ambiance that is hard to resist. The French cuisine crafted here is nothing short of brilliant, and the attentive staff adds to the overall experience. The well-curated wine list is an added bonus. The best way to describe 64 Goodge Street is “Old Fashioned,” and I mean that as the highest form of praise.
64 Goodge Street
64 Goodge Street, London W1T 4NF; 64goodgestreet.co.uk
Starters: £14-£18
Mains: £28-£40
Desserts: £12-£15
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