A Fuchsia Dunlop Recipe: Mastering the Art of Cooking with Lettuce

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Who would’ve thought of cooking salad? That was my initial reaction when I first discovered Chinese dishes that incorporated cooked lettuce or cucumber. Nowadays, I readily embrace both ingredients in stir-fries and soups. A quick blanch and refresh of crisp lettuce, like little gem, cos or romaine, creates a vibrant and lively garnish for noodle soup. Stir-frying lettuce leaves with just a touch of oil and salt, to a point between crunch and wilt, brings out their delicate nutty flavor.

But what I love most is tossing them in the wok with fermented tofu (doufu ru), a Chinese ingredient that deserves more recognition. This bold condiment is made by allowing tofu cubes to grow a coating of fluffy white mold, then curing them in salt, liquor, and spices. The fermentation process produces a relish that is salty, creamy, and full of umami, with a cheesy intensity reminiscent of Roquefort. In China, it’s often consumed straight from the jar, sparingly, with plain rice, congee, or steamed buns. It can also be used in sauces and marinades. I frequently add a little to simmering pork ribs or belly to enhance the sauce.

You can find jars of fermented tofu cubes in most Chinese supermarkets. If you’re unsure, simply take a photo of the Chinese characters above and show it to a store assistant. There are various types available, but for this recipe, plain white cubes of tofu in brine, with or without floating red chili, work best. An opened jar can be stored in the fridge for a long time.

Stir-fried lettuce with chili and fermented tofu

Furu shengcai (腐乳生菜)

Serves 2-4 with rice and other Chinese dishes

1. Trim and discard the stalky end, as well as any wilted or discolored leaves, from the lettuce. Separate the remaining leaves and quarter the innermost heart lengthwise. Rinse and shake dry. With larger lettuces, halve the leaves crosswise for easy chopstick handling.

2. Remove the stem and as many seeds as possible from the chili, then finely slice or sliver it.

3. In a small bowl, combine the tofu cubes, 1 tablespoon of water, sugar, and salt. Mash them together until you have a smooth, creamy paste.

4. Heat the cooking oil in a seasoned wok over high heat. Add the garlic and stir briefly to sizzle without browning. Quickly add the lettuce and chili slivers, and stir-fry vigorously for a few minutes until the leaves are hot but still crisp at the center. Add the creamy tofu and stir rapidly to coat the lettuce. For a restaurant-like finish, stir the starch mixture, pour it into the center of the wok, and quickly stir as the juices thicken. Serve immediately with rice and other dishes.

Fuchsia Dunlop is a culinary expert and author of “The Food of Sichuan.”

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