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Discovering the Vibrancy of London’s “Coolest” Corner Shop
These corner shops are an integral part of British culture, offering a diverse array of goods like alcohol, cigarettes, lottery tickets, sweets, pet food, and even hummus. They are the embodiment of convenience, serving patrons who urgently need their morning milk fix or a sugary snack to cure their hangover. These shops are so deeply ingrained in British life that they often feature in popular TV shows like Coronation Street and Hollyoaks. In reality, there are 49,388 convenience stores peppered throughout the UK, each with its own unique story to tell.
On a sticky Friday afternoon in east London, I find myself sitting outside one such corner shop, enjoying a warm vegetarian curry. The succulent cubes of paneer effortlessly melt in my mouth, while the thepla, a soft Indian flatbread, perfectly soaks up the rich spinach sauce. This meal rivals the quality of dishes you would typically pay a fortune for at a fancy restaurant or a trendy street food stall. Yet, astonishingly, it only costs £6 from the nearby Londis.
From the outside, Londis N16 appears just like any other convenience store. However, the story behind it reveals a different tale. Established in 1979 by Karsan and Mahalaxmi Patel, a husband and wife duo who migrated to the UK from Zambia, the shop is now operated by the succeeding generations of the Patel family, who spent their childhoods residing above it. The store’s claim to fame is its selection of homemade Gujarati cuisine, which has earned Londis the title of the capital’s “coolest corner shop,” as declared by the renowned fashion magazine, The Face.
I first discovered Londis N16 on Instagram, where their profile showcases a delightful combination of food photography, whimsical captions, and humorous memes. They keep their 7,000 followers updated on their ever-changing food menu and exciting events like the regular “supper club,” which kicked off with a collaboration with Delli, an app that enables independent food creators to sell their gastronomic creations. Running the Instagram account is Priyesh Patel, son of store owners Anju and Mayank.
Patel emphasizes that everything is a collaborative effort within the family. Anju cooks up the delicious fare in the on-site kitchen, while Mayank tends to the shop floor. Patel’s brother, Alpesh, handles all the purchasing, with support from Jay, a close family friend. Neelam, Patel’s sister-in-law, reigns over the dessert section. Every Tuesday and Friday, patrons have the opportunity to indulge in freshly prepared vegetarian curries, warm samosas, and delectable cauliflower pakoras, accompanied by an abundance of garlic and coriander chutney. Additionally, fluffy baked cakes and doughnuts infused with fragrant flavors like cardamom, pistachio, and rose cream make for an unforgettable treat.
Despite looming forecasts of decline due to the rise of online shopping and the emergence of smaller supermarket chains like Tesco Express and Sainsbury’s Local, convenience stores have defied expectations. In fact, sales have witnessed a surge during the Covid-19 pandemic, positioning them as unsung heroes when major supermarkets faced shortages of essential goods. However, with the increasing cost of living crisis, these stores now face the harsh reality of customers prioritizing value over convenience. Moreover, rising energy prices further threaten the survival of these beloved British corner shops.
The essence of Londis lies in the philosophy established by Patel’s grandparents when they first entered the UK market – accessibility and provision for the diverse community. As a Londis franchise, they enjoy the advantages of a chain while maintaining the freedom of an independent store. They adapt to the ever-changing community as new individuals settle in their area.
The magnetism of the shop’s homemade cuisine has attracted a wide range of customers. Patel explains, “We cater to people from all walks of life. Locals visit our store for their daily essentials or simply because they love my mother’s cooking. Earlier today, a man from New York walked in, having been recommended our food by a friend.”
According to James Lowman, chief executive of the Association of Convenience Stores (ACS), similar stories can be heard throughout the convenience store landscape, with queues forming around the block for freshly baked samosas and delectable Turkish, Lebanese, or Polish deli offerings. Lowman believes this reflects the triumph of multiculturalism and reaffirms the relevance of convenience stores in today’s society. He reveals that the convenience store sector consistently outperforms the grocery market as a whole.
Over the past year, the number of convenience stores in the UK has grown by nearly 1,000. These encompass various establishments, ranging from newsagents and franchised stores like Londis to independent greengrocers. The Grocer reports that food sales in convenience stores witnessed a one percentage point increase, reaching 23.4% by 2022. This rise has resulted in a direct dent in the sales of supermarket giants. The convenience store model helps reduce “till shock” by allowing customers to be more mindful of their purchases and minimize wastage. While these stores may be cost-prohibitive for large weekly shops, they enable customers to shop smarter with frequent smaller purchases.
Even in challenging economic times, Lowman asserts that people still yearn for affordable indulgences, which their local convenience store provides. While they may not eat out as often, they still treat themselves to small luxuries such as premium chocolates and fancy drinks.
Convenience stores can also compete with supermarkets when it comes to quality. They often offer locally sourced, fresh fruits, and vegetables. They act as purveyors of premium products that might not be readily available in supermarkets, including vegan alternatives and international delicacies like baklava.
Mark McCall, owner of McCall’s Organics, has been serving customers from the same location for the past 128 years. This family-owned greengrocer store boasts a treasure trove of locally grown produce, seeds, vegan sausage roll fillings, and an assortment of fresh spices. Nestled amidst this abundance is an original red barrow, which once transported goods to and from the market over a century ago. McCall firmly believes that no other independent shop in Manchester can match their variety and quality. To expand their offerings, he inaugurated McCall’s Exotics ten years ago, which operates right next door. How have they managed to remain successful for so long? McCall attributes it, in part, to the burgeoning trend of young people seeking to cook dishes they’ve seen on TV or online. He remarks, “Here, you can purchase ingredients to prepare any cuisine you desire, whether it be Indian, Jamaican, or Thai.”
Emmy Tokunaga, a dedicated employee at McCall’s for three years, highlights the shop’s flexibility in catering to customer demands. Customers have the option to call and request specific ingredients that may not be regularly stocked. The product offerings are updated seasonally and based on customer requests. As Tokunaga notes, “We get to know people and their stories, and they ask for certain things, and we can respond accordingly.” The shop also runs a loyalty points scheme, which rewards returning customers with discounts. Additionally, they offer daily boxes of mixed seasonal vegetables for £10.
This adaptability has been a defining factor for Britain’s convenience stores, spanning the gamut from greengrocers like McCall’s to the quintessential family-run corner shop. Babita Sharma, acclaimed journalist and author of the memoir “The Corner Shop,” grew up living above her parents’ stores in Reading. Her parents, Prem and Ved, who migrated from India in the late 60s, set up the shop in 1977. During the energy crunch, they sold paraffin and illuminated the shop with candles.
Sharma recalls how her parents’ corner shop embodied the tensions of the era – racial, political, and economic. Yet, it also served as a testament to community and resilience. In the 80s recession, regular customers could purchase items on credit with the promise to pay later when they had the means. “Corner shops possess the ability to respond swiftly to community needs due to less bureaucracy,” Sharma remarks. “That’s why they’ve managed to remain profitable throughout the numerous crises of the past few decades.”
Now comes the perplexing question- what’s next?
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