The Future of New Zealand’s Apple Industry: A Story of Innovation and Adaptation
In 2001, Richard Volz, at the age of 42, took charge of one of New Zealand’s most prized products – its delicious apples. New Zealand is globally renowned for its flavorful apples, such as the Braeburn, Gala, Envy, Jazz, and Smitten varieties. Volz, as the head of apple and pear variety breeding at a leading agricultural research group, faced a unique challenge from apple farmers in Catalonia, Spain, who were looking for apple varieties that could thrive in their hot and dry climate.
With New Zealand’s exceptional seeds and seedlings, Volz embarked on a mission to discover whether the apple genes hidden within this germplasm could produce a fruit capable of withstanding unprecedented climate conditions. However, breeding and developing a new apple variety takes more than two decades, adding another layer of uncertainty to Volz’s gamble.
This summer, I had the opportunity to stand with Volz in an orchard in Lleida, Spain, as he revealed the outcome of his 20 years of dedicated work. The sweltering heat, surpassing 40C, was challenging for apple trees. Apples require substantial amounts of water and a balance of cool nights and warm days. Volz selected an apple from the orchard and cut it into four slices, handing one to me. Although not yet ripe, it offered a sweet, crisp, and juicy experience. This apple, known as Tutti or HOT84A1, is the first fruit of the Hot Climate Partnership, a joint effort between scientists and growers in Spain and New Zealand. It is specifically designed to thrive in hot weather.
However, the decades of development coincided with the rapid pace of climate change, which has exceeded expectations. Last year, Spain experienced its hottest summer in 700 years, while Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand was devastated by a cyclone. As Tutti is introduced to the market, it raises the question: does this signify a new era for the apple industry or the beginning of its decline?
As I walked to my local market in east London a few days later, I came across an unusual apple called Discovery. It was freshly harvested, with a spotty and partially red skin, yet filled with a delightful fragrance when I bit into it. Discovery, bred in England in 1949, is just one of over 7,500 varieties that have been forgotten or are now sold as “heirloom” specimens at farmers’ markets. These older varieties, compared to new cultivars produced through selective breeding, often tend to be delicate, easily bruised, or prone to softness.
While some argue that locally grown apples are superior, most apples in supermarkets are bought for their convenience. Harry Wilder, senior agronomist at Marks and Spencer, plays a pivotal role in selecting new apple varieties to attract discerning middle-class shoppers who are willing to pay a premium price. M&S emphasizes consistent availability, specifying not just the color, texture, and taste, but even the precise week for harvest.
Popular apples like Pink Lady, initially bred in Australia in 1973, have become iconic brands. Supermarkets, once focused solely on low prices, were challenged by growers who marketed apples like Pink Lady at a premium by emphasizing quality and branding. This gave rise to “club variety” apples, including New Zealand’s SweeTango and Cosmic Crisp along with Germany’s Piñata and France’s Tentation.
While consumers often prefer red apples due to a perception that redness indicates ripeness, it is not always a reliable guide. Modern packing plants use advanced technology to sort apples based on color and blemishes, with a single variety like Golden Delicious being sorted into 70 different categories.
Despite the challenges posed by climate change and changing consumer demand for consistency, the apple industry continues to innovate and adapt. Volz’s Tutti and other new varieties offer hope for apple growers around the world, while older varieties find a niche market among nostalgic consumers. As we navigate an uncertain future, one thing remains clear – the allure of a crisp and juicy apple will always persist.
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