How Wildfires are Imparting ‘Ashtray’ Flavors to Wines

The US West Coast is responsible for producing more than 90% of America’s wine. However, this region is also prone to wildfires, creating a dangerous situation for the industry. In 2020, these wildfires had a devastating effect on the wine industry, prompting scientists to search for solutions. They are now collaborating to protect grapes by developing spray coatings, identifying the compounds that cause the unpleasant taste of ash in wine made from smoke-affected grapes, and deploying smoke sensors in vineyards. Their research is receiving significant funding from the US government as the threat to the wine industry continues to grow. Climate change is exacerbating droughts and causing forests to become highly flammable, putting America’s premier wine-making regions at risk. Grapes are the highest-value crop in the US, with 96% of grape-bearing land located on the West Coast. To adapt to climate change, winemakers worldwide are relocating vineyards to cooler areas and planting grape varieties that are more resistant to drought and heat. However, the immediate danger of wildfires still needs to be addressed by researchers from Oregon State University, Washington State University, and the University of California, Davis.

The ability to continue producing wine in areas with frequent smoke exposures is at stake, according to Tom Collins, a wine scientist at Washington State University. Wine made from contaminated grapes can be so unpleasant that it is unsellable. Additionally, a winemaker’s reputation can be ruined if they release subpar wine. During the record wildfires of 2020, some wineries in California refused to accept grapes unless they had been tested. However, most vineyards struggled to find labs to analyze their grapes due to overwhelming demand. The damage caused to the industry in California alone was estimated to be $3.7 billion. Industry expert Jon Moramarco conducted an analysis revealing that the majority of losses were due to wineries forfeiting future wine sales. The impact was most significant in Napa Valley, known for its highly valued grapes and wines. If a ton of cabernet sauvignon grapes is ruined, it equates to approximately 720 bottles of wine, which can quickly accumulate in value if priced at $100 per bottle. (Read more climate change stories.)