“Farmers here are the caretakers of culture,” said Ms. Bejo, who fulfills several roles such as Albanik’s gardener, concierge, yoga instructor, and hiking guide. “It’s crucial to show appreciation to the families that have endured and stayed in the valley as the economy shifts towards tourism.”
I embarked on a moderately challenging hike to reach the Sopoti Waterfall, a stunning 65-foot waterfall fed by springs. My next adventure took me on an hour-long walk south of Permet to the 18th-century St. Mary’s Church in the hillside settlement of Leusa. This stone-and-brick church features a beautifully carved wooden iconostasis and is adorned with frescoes and murals.
Afterwards, I met Ms. Bejo, who guided me through the narrow Lengarica Canyon. This canyon cradles the Lengarica River, a tributary of the Vjosa, and is home to a series of hot springs near the village of Benja. We passed by the Katiu Bridge, an Ottoman-era bridge that frames the largest thermal bath, already bustling with visitors. We continued walking upstream, in knee-deep water, to find more secluded pools. Each of the six sulfur baths has specific medical benefits, and we chose the one for rheumatism. As a light rain shower passed over us, we relaxed and enjoyed the therapeutic waters.
The following day, we embarked on a 45-minute scramble from the riverside town of Kelcyra to the unmarked remains of a 2,400-year-old Illyrian fortress overlooking the Vjosa. From this strategic vantage point, ancient residents used smoke signals to communicate with other outposts, warning of potential invaders throughout history, such as the Greeks, Macedonians, and Romans. Below the ruins, a group of kayakers in orange boats and red helmets paddled through the breathtaking Kelcyra Gorge.
In between our treks, we took the time to visit families who collaborate with Ms. Bejo. In Gostivisht, we met Flora and Krenar Sali, beekeepers who have 150 beehives producing honey from the mountain flowers known as Bedunica. In the village of Peshtan, nestled below the majestic Mount Golikut, we encountered Mira Muka, the proprietor of Bujtina Peshtan guesthouse and campsite. Mira shared her collection of weapons from the Italian-Greek frontline of World War II along the Vjosa. She expressed how just a decade ago, only 15 people would stop by, whereas this year it is expected to reach 1,500 visitors. Mira emphasized the significance of the Vjosa, which provides them with everything – people, fish, and water. It is both their past and their future.
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