Tralee: A Perfect Base for Exploring the Kerry Coast
When it comes to exploring the scenic Kerry coast, Tralee makes an ideal base. But it’s not just the stunning views that draw in visitors from around the world. As two travelers on a journey to this famous Kerry town, we were excited to witness the buzz surrounding The Rose of Tralee International Festival.
For our stay during this festive week, we chose The Rose Hotel (therosehotel.com), a beautiful establishment just outside the town center. Pulling into the car park, we were greeted by elegantly dressed men and women, all ready for the night’s festivities. Excitedly, we made our way to our spacious room where we found delectable chocolates and a warm welcome note awaiting us.
After settling in, we ventured into town through the picturesque Park of Tralee to reach Cassidy’s on Abbey Street (066 712-8833). This charming restaurant had the cozy, small-town atmosphere that we desired for our getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city. Their set menu offered a tempting array of options, all at an affordable price of under €30 for three courses.
For starters, I couldn’t resist their crispy button mushrooms with garlic sauce, followed by a flavorful minute steak with vegetables as the main course. However, the highlight of the meal was undoubtedly the dessert. When you come across the phrase “triple chocolate Oreo lasagne” on a menu, ordering it is simply a must. Though it resembled more of a cake than a lasagne, the taste did not disappoint.
After our wonderful dinner, we took a leisurely stroll through town, immersing ourselves in the lively street events. We paused at The Square to enjoy some live music and then settled at an outdoor table in The Fiddler. With a pint in hand, we grooved to hits from the ’70s and ’80s played by the band.
Continuing our wander down Denny Street, we stumbled upon a Johnny Cash impersonator performing in front of the Kerry County Museum. After indulging in a few country tunes, we decided to call it a night and made our way back to The Rose Hotel for a well-deserved rest.
Exploring the Kerry Greenways
On our second day, we embarked on an adventure across town to Tralee Bike Rental (traleebikerental.ie) to acquire our e-bikes for a cycle along the Tralee to Fenit Greenway. They even provided us with sun cream, as I had regrettably forgotten to pack any.
Riding an e-bike for the first time proved to be an incredible experience. The Greenway spans approximately 15km, tracing the path of the old railway line from the heart of Tralee to the charming coastal town of Fenit. The route offers breathtaking views of rolling fields, majestic mountains, and even the company of friendly cows along the way. With the assistance of the e-bikes, the journey was effortless, allowing us to fully enjoy the surroundings.
Once we arrived in Fenit, we took a leisurely stroll down the pier, admiring the statue of St Brendan, before popping into Mike’s Café (Instagram: @beachcafefenit) for a delightful treat. Although the exterior was still undergoing renovations, the café’s interior boasted a vibrant and whimsical nautical theme.
Indulging in a slice of blueberry and lemon drizzle cake, we then headed to the harbor for our sea safari (fenitseasafari.ie). Our guide, Garry, warmly welcomed us and ensured we were well-prepared, even providing additional sun cream. Though the website stated a two-hour trip, Garry kindly offered to extend our safari for an extra hour. If it were up to me, I would have spent the entire day on that boat.
Leaving the harbor, Garry informed us that we might encounter a pod of dolphins nearby, but as with any encounter in the wild, there are no guarantees. However, within five minutes, dolphins were swimming alongside our boat as we traversed Tralee Bay.
We continued to Barrow Bay, where we marveled at the fledgling cormorants mastering the art of hunting. Garry entertained us with tales of smugglers who had navigated these shores throughout history, from the Vikings to the Irish War of Independence. Our journey then took us to witness a colony of seals basking on a nearby cluster of rocks.
Garry’s knowledge and passion for the area’s history and nature were impressive. Despite offering the same tour for many years, his conversation felt genuine and engaging. It was as if we were discussing a subject he cherished.
As we approached Brandon Bay, we were greeted by a group of dolphins. While the initial encounter with three dolphins had left us content, this time we were surrounded by around 30 dolphins, eager to put on a show. They gracefully leaped out of the water, seemingly beckoning us to capture the moment for our Instagram stories.
Witnessing a group of dolphins playfully swimming in their natural habitat is a sight that will never cease to awe, much like the northern lights or a sunrise. Despite our reluctance to leave, it was time to return to shore and make our way back to Tralee along the Greenway once more.
Our evening concluded with a delectable meal at the Park Restaurant in The Rose. I savored the chicken and Sneem black pudding roulade as an appetizer, followed by a mouthwatering 8oz sirloin as the main course. Although my choices were delicious, they paled in comparison to my partner’s roast half Silverhill duck with truffled parsnip puree, orange glazed carrots, kale, and brandy-soaked raisins. Luckily, I managed to sneak a few bites for myself.
After enjoying the final night of the Rose of Tralee in the hotel bar, we retired for the night, ready to head back to Dublin the next day. Our trip may have been brief, but it was filled with adventure, excitement, and tantalizing gastronomic delights.
Kevin was a guest of Fáilte Ireland; discoverireland.ie
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