September: Food Heaven in Scandinavia
September is the month of food heaven in Scandinavia. It brings the best selection of seasonal produce, offering a fusion of end-of-summer delights and the beginning of autumn flavors. From the last of the berries, new potatoes, and cabbage to the arrival of root vegetables, mushrooms, spinach, sweet tomatoes, fatty mackerel, and herbs like dill and lovage, the options are endless. This is the ideal time to celebrate the bountiful harvest and express gratitude to farmers and nature for their contributions to our plates. Velbekomme.
Fried Mackerel with Shaken Redcurrants (pictured top)
Eating sweet-and-sour pickled berries with fish, chicken, or meat is a cherished Scandinavian tradition. Danish lingon sylt, also known as raw, cured redcurrants, is a classic condiment that pairs well with fried plaice, herring, mackerel, roast chicken, or braised beef. Its high acidity complements rich, fried fish and heavier meats. To prepare the redcurrants, start the process at least three days in advance.
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Maceration: 3 days
Cooking time: 20 minutes, plus resting
Serves 4
For the Shaken Redcurrants
- 500g redcurrants, plus extra for serving
- 250g caster sugar
For the Mackerel
- 4 mackerel fillets
- Sea salt flakes and black pepper
- 4 leeks, trimmed, sliced into 10cm sections, and washed
- 1 tbsp salted butter
- 1 small bunch fresh dill, roughly chopped
Rinse the redcurrants in cold water and place them in a large rectangular dish. Sprinkle with sugar and gently fold to coat. Leave at room temperature, shaking the dish occasionally, until the sugar completely dissolves (approximately three days). Transfer the redcurrants to an airtight container and refrigerate. They will keep for about eight weeks.
Sprinkle the mackerel fillets with salt and pepper, then let them rest for 30 minutes. Steam the leeks over simmering salted water for five minutes (until tender), then drain and keep warm. Melt the butter in a pan, then fry the mackerel for two to three minutes on each side. Serve with leeks and shaken redcurrants, garnishing the plates with fresh redcurrants and dill.
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Frikadeller with Sweet-and-Sour Cucumber Salad
Trine Hahnemann’s frikadeller with sweet-and-sour cucumber salad.
These flattened meatballs, known as frikadeller, are quintessentially Danish with a twist. They are one of the top 10 most-cooked recipes in Denmark, with every family having its own version. The debate about the best meat to use will never cease, but I usually opt for a mixture of minced pork and beef, adding vegetables to make the meatballs light and juicy. If you don’t eat red meat, minced chicken can be used instead. For a vegetarian option, grate a variety of root vegetables to replace the meat. Regardless of your choice, frikadeller pairs excellently with a cucumber salad.
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Pickle: 30 minutes+
Cooking time: 40 minutes
Serves 4
For the Frikadeller
- 500g minced chicken
- 1 medium courgette, trimmed and grated
- 1 medium onion, peeled and grated
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
- 1 tbsp chopped thyme leaves
- 3 eggs, lightly beaten
- 50g breadcrumbs
- 3 tbsp plain flour
- 50ml sparkling water
- 50g salted butter
- 2 tbsp neutral oil, vegetable or similar
For the Cucumber Salad
- 250ml 5% acid distilled vinegar
- 125g caster sugar
- Sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tsp mustard seeds
- 1 tsp black peppercorns
- 2 large cucumbers
Start by making the cucumber salad, as it needs to pickle for 30 minutes. In a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, cold water, sugar, sea salt, ground black pepper, mustard seeds, and peppercorns.
Cut the cucumbers in half lengthways, scoop out the seeds, and slice the flesh into 5mm-thick half moons. Add the cucumbers to the brine and gently fold in. Let it marinate for at least 30 minutes, turning occasionally before serving.
To prepare the meatballs, thoroughly mix the minced meat, courgette, onion, garlic, thyme, and eggs. Fold in the breadcrumbs and flour, then mix again. Finally, add the sparkling water and season with salt and pepper.
Preheat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. Heat butter and oil in a frying pan. Use a spoon and your hand to shape the meat mixture into medium-sized oval balls. Fry them in the hot pan until golden brown on all sides, then transfer to an ovenproof dish and roast in the hot oven for 10 minutes to finish cooking.
Remove the pickled cucumbers from the brine (you can reuse the brine) and serve in a bowl alongside the frikadeller.
Potato Pancakes
Trine Hahnemann’s Norwegian-style potato pancakes.
In the old days, women in small Norwegian towns would come together to make large potato pancakes for wedding breakfasts. These pancakes require some planning, as the potatoes need to settle overnight to roll out the dough easily.
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Chill time: Overnight
Cooking time: 45 minutes
Makes 10
For the Pancakes
- 500g peeled floury potatoes
- 80g salted butter
- 95g full-fat creme fraiche
- Sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
- 175g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
For the Topping
- 200g spinach
- 4 tomatoes
- 1 onion, peeled and sliced
The day before making the pancakes, boil the potatoes until tender. Drain well, then pass them through a ricer into a bowl. Add 50g butter, 50g creme fraiche, salt, and black pepper to taste. Mix well, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, mix the flour into the potato mixture and divide the dough into 10 equal pieces. Roll out each piece on a floured work surface into a 12cm-diameter circle. Cook the pancakes one by one in a dry frying pan, flipping them when light brown on both sides (approximately 2-3 minutes per side).
Rinse the spinach in cold water and drain well. Cut the tomatoes in half, remove the juice and seeds, and thinly slice them. Sauté the onion in 1-2 tablespoons of butter until golden brown, then add the spinach and cook until wilted. Season to taste. Remove from heat, add the tomatoes, and mix.
Serve the warm pancakes topped with the vegetables, and accompany with 2-3 tablespoons of creme fraiche on the side.
These recipes are an edited extract from Simply Scandinavian: Cook and Eat the Easy Way, with Delicious Scandi Recipes, by Trine Hahnemann, published by Quadrille at £27. To order a copy for £23.76, visit the Guardian Bookshop.
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