France is at the forefront of the battle between trains and planes in the travel industry. In May 2021, the country implemented a ban on domestic flights that can be replaced by train travel within two and a half hours, making it the first to do so. This move was seen as a powerful message and a symbol of the country’s commitment to reducing carbon emissions. The European Commission has also designated 2021 as the Year of European Rail, leading to significant investments in railway infrastructure across central and eastern Europe.
In light of these developments, I decided to embark on a train journey around France to test the feasibility of Macron’s policy and its impact on the country’s public infrastructure. I purchased a “one country” Interrail pass and planned an 18-day route that would take me from Paris to Nantes, Bordeaux, Soulac-sur-Mer, Narbonne, Marseille, Chaîne des Puys, and back to Paris.
The journey began with a peaceful and efficient high-speed TGV train from Paris to Nantes. The train offered a classy buffet car with a variety of food options. Upon arriving in Nantes, I was greeted by the vibrant atmosphere of the city, with its free public art and pedestrian-friendly streets. The absence of traffic noise made it even more enjoyable to explore the alfresco bars and restaurants.
Next, I traveled to Soulac-sur-Mer on the silver coast of Aquitaine. The journey involved medium- to long-distance Intercités trains. Although there was no wifi on board, the scenic views of cornfields, sunflowers, vineyards, and streams made up for it. The atmosphere at Bordeaux Saint-Jean station was bustling, with people rushing to make connections. Despite the graffiti-covered windows of the TER train I boarded, the working air conditioning provided a comfortable journey.
Soulac-sur-Mer is a place that highlights the frontline of the climate crisis in France. Rising sea levels due to climate change led to the evacuation and eventual demolition of the Le Signal holiday flats. Visiting the site reminded me of the urgent need to address environmental issues.
From Soulac-sur-Mer, I traveled to Narbonne, where I took an old and charming Intercités train. The train was lit by beautiful art deco-style lamps, and the overall ambiance was tranquil. As I gazed out of the window, the majestic Pyrenees came into view.
Although the journey to Narbonne was relatively short, it reminded me of the vastness of France. The ban on domestic flights, while significant, affects only a small percentage of the country’s air travel. However, it serves as a symbolic gesture and lays the groundwork for further measures to reduce carbon emissions.
Narbonne captivated me with its vibrant architecture and historical significance. Despite the decline in tourism, the city retained its charm and religious traditions. Shopping for holy water and glow-in-the-dark Jesus souvenirs was an intriguing experience.
The journey hit a minor bump on the way to Clermont-Ferrand, with overcrowded carriages and arguments over seat reservations. However, I was impressed by the extensive reach of the French rail network. While discussing this with a waiter, he humorously criticized French trains for being complicated, old, and slow. Nevertheless, he agreed that they were still superior to British trains.
As my trip came to an end, I reflected on the distance traveled, the time spent on trains, and the significant reduction in CO2 emissions compared to flying. It was a testament to the potential of train travel in creating a more sustainable future for the travel industry.
Overall, my journey through France showcased the country’s commitment to promoting train travel as a viable alternative to domestic flights. The infrastructure improvements and investment in railways across Europe reinforce this vision. France’s efforts serve as a reminder that the battle between trains and planes is not just about convenience but also about building a greener future.
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