“What this research reveals is that the increased risks of flooding due to rising sea levels are further compounded by the intensification of waves,” stated Patrick Barnard, a research geologist at the United States Geological Survey. “As we strive to build resilient communities in the face of rising sea and storm levels, we must also consider this factor.”
Ian Young, an oceanography professor at the University of Melbourne, concurred with Dr. Bromirski’s findings, citing previous satellite data from the 1980s that studied wave heights. This research helps emphasize that these changes have been occurring over a significant period of time. “There is undoubtedly a long-term trend,” Young affirmed.
These changes became evident earlier this year when consecutive atmospheric river events battered the West Coast, causing significant damage to homes in Santa Cruz, California, through flooding and strong winds. Months later, a landslide led to homes collapsing into a canyon in one of Los Angeles County’s affluent neighborhoods. Additionally, the sudden onslaught of waves during a downpour can overwhelm coastal areas, leading to infrastructure destruction and erosion.
Even professional surfers express concerns that bigger waves are not always ideal. “If the waves are massive, but the conditions are stormy and windy with chop, surfers won’t be able to ride those waves,” explained Tyler Fox, an experienced big wave surfer in Santa Cruz. Such ocean conditions can include numerous small waves, creating a rough water surface.
Having surfed for over three decades, 42-year-old Mr. Fox noted certain areas where it becomes impossible to enter the water during high tide. He also mentioned how sections of cliffs have collapsed into the water, introducing new hazards. Violent storms can additionally propel debris from damaged trees, homes, and other structures into the ocean, contaminating a sanctuary he holds dear.
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