During Dior’s extravagant high jewelry presentation in June, a model elegantly descended the stairs of the picturesque Villa Erba on Italy’s magnificent Lake Como. Adorned with an array of stunning jewelry, her ensemble included two earrings, an ear cuff, a choker, two rings on each forefinger, and a delightful bouquet of diamond blossoms delicately fastened around her right ankle.
Victoire de Castellane, the creative director of Dior Jewelry, described the collection, Les Jardins de la Couture, as an exploration of the body as a playground, with an emphasis on unique accessories like ear cuffs and anklets. Breaking free from traditional norms, Dior’s innovative approach to jewelry captivated the fashion world.
Although anklets have been a cherished accessory in the Middle East and Southeast Asia for centuries, they only gained popularity in the West during the mid-20th century. Initially, they were considered a youthful fad or a playful embellishment for a day at the beach. However, in recent years, designers have been pushing the boundaries by incorporating anklets into their collections.
Valérie Messika, the Paris-based designer known for her diamond-focused brand, has been featuring anklets prominently in her collections since establishing her brand in 2005. In 2021, she even collaborated with the iconic Kate Moss on a unique anklet design. Messika believes that jewelry should not be limited to traditional placements such as fingers, wrists, necks, and ears. She finds joy in expressing creativity and elegance by adorning the body with anklets.
Celebrities have also embraced the anklet trend, as seen at recent red-carpet events. Kim Kardashian, at Dolce & Gabbana’s haute couture event in Puglia, Italy, added a diamond anklet to enhance her opulent purple gown. Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s jewelry executive creative director, sported a diamond-studded Serpenti bracelet around her ankle at the London opening of the “Serpenti Metamorphosis” exhibition. Alyse Chirumbole, director of fine jewelry and watches for the online personal-shopping service Threads Styling, notes a surge in demand for high-end anklets, with sales peaking between early spring and late summer in the Northern Hemisphere.
The popularity of anklets continues to soar beyond just the summer season. Sabine Getty, a renowned socialite and British Tatler’s editor-at-large, revealed her love for anklets. She described how she wears her favorite gold Payal anklet by Venyx every day during summer. In winter, she adds a touch of fun and sensuality by wearing it over black tights at formal events.
Eugenie Niarchos, the founder and designer of Venyx, has been creating exquisite anklets for the past six years. She introduced the Payal line at her pop-up store on the idyllic Greek island of Mykonos in 2020. Originally crafted in 18-karat gold, the anklets were later switched to 14 karat to reduce weight but not compromise on quality. Venyx also offers other captivating designs, such as the Big Pearl Anklet and the Mykonos Shell design, catering to a wide range of tastes and preferences.
The sentimental attachment to anklets is undeniable. Customers become infatuated with their anklets to the point where they rarely remove them, as observed by Eugenie Niarchos. She noticed how her anklets transcend seasons, remaining cherished accessories even during the winter months.
Anklets hold historical significance and cultural symbolism in various societies. Ancient civilizations like the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans extensively documented the tradition of wearing anklets. In India, anklets have long been associated with wealth and status for both men and women. Nikita Binani, Sotheby’s head of jewelry sales in London, highlights how anklets, known as payal, symbolize prosperity and protection against the evil eye. Lavishly adorned anklets, such as those laden with diamonds or featuring exquisite enamel work, have been auctioned by renowned establishments like Christie’s.
The artistry of anklets expands beyond mere ornaments. In India, the tradition of anklets is intertwined with music and dance. The ghungroo anklet, with its multiple strands and jingling beads, creates a harmonious connection between music and jewelry. Krishna Choudhary, the designer of Santi Jewels in London, emphasizes how anklets are mentioned in Indian literature, including sacred Buddhist texts. Anklets are one of the 16 traditional embellishments expected to be worn by Hindu women. It is customary for mothers to offer anklets as wedding presents, as exemplified by Mr. Choudhary’s mother gifting his wife a pair.
While jewelers in the West now offer specific anklet designs, many clients choose to repurpose bracelets or necklaces, wearing them around their ankles. This versatile approach allows for personal expression and individual style. Francesca Ruggiero, the founder and designer of the jewelry brand Kiaia in London, shares how a client at their pop-up store on Capri bought a gold Kiaia Snake necklace and immediately wore it as an anklet, showcasing the creativity and adaptability of anklet styling.
Anklets have become increasingly popular among clients from the Middle East, attracting the attention of fine jewelry designers worldwide. Lily Gabriella Elia, a prominent jewelry designer based in London, recalls creating her first anklet in 2019 for a Brazilian client who also requested a matching armlet. However, she notes that Middle Eastern clients frequently seek anklet designs. She has found immense success with her Talisman collection, featuring customizable evil eye anklets that celebrate individuality and protection.
Mizuki Goltz, the Tokyo-born designer behind the acclaimed Mizuki fine jewelry line in New York, believes the surge in anklet popularity reflects a renewed focus on self-care and well-being, brought on by the global pandemic. She compares anklets to lingerie, stating that they possess the power to make ankles look pretty and sexy, even when concealed under long skirts or pants. Anklets add a special touch, whether seen or unseen, elevating any ensemble.
The allure of anklets continues to captivate both designers and jewelry enthusiasts worldwide. With its rich historical context, cultural significance, and limitless possibilities for creative expression, the anklet trend is here to stay. Embracing anklets allows individuals to celebrate their own unique sense of style while honoring a centuries-old tradition.
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