Restaurants in New York City are often seen as the living rooms of New Yorkers, providing a space for people to gather, relax, and enjoy a meal. One particular restaurant, Da Andrea, has become a favorite of mine over the years. Initially, I was bothered by the increasing number of unfamiliar faces I saw there, but I have come to realize that sharing this living room with new guests is actually a positive experience.
As a student, I frequently visited Da Andrea, using my internship paychecks to indulge in delicious Northern Italian cuisine. It was a quiet establishment where local residents would gather with their families, and I would often eavesdrop on first dates or sit and read while completing my school assignments.
Throughout the years, Da Andrea underwent various changes in terms of ownership, layout, staff, location, and clientele. However, one dish remained a constant on the menu: ricotta cavatelli with vibrant green pesto. For a long time, I tried unsuccessfully to replicate the unique pesto recipe, intrigued by its captivating color. The pesto at Da Andrea always maintained its shiny, velvety appearance, unlike traditional pestos that often turn brown and lose their appeal. It exuded a striking green hue that resembled neon Chicago-dog relish blended into cream.
Recently, I had the opportunity to shadow the executive chef of Da Andrea, Meliano Plasencia, as he prepared the dish. Despite being busy with a delayed grocery shipment, Plasencia graciously showed me how he has perfected the recipe over the years. In just half an hour, I learned all the secrets behind that exceptional pesto, observing Plasencia in an unfamiliar kitchen that had been serving me for 13 years.
The pesto, like the restaurant itself, has evolved over time to adapt to changing tastes and dietary restrictions. The original recipe, which won second place in a pesto invitational in 1985, included pine nuts. However, to cater to diners with allergies, the nuts have been eliminated. Surprisingly, I discovered that removing a couple of ingredients actually enhanced the overall flavor of the pesto. Without the nuts, the pesto embodied the pure essence of basil, its floral aroma complemented by a flawless emulsion of liquid and fat.
During my time with Plasencia, I was impressed by his skillful control of heat in the kitchen. Adding ice to the blender to keep the basil from oxidizing showcased his mastery. Similarly, his meticulous approach to cooking the seafood, ensuring it was just heated through, highlighted his understanding of delicate flavors. The perfectly cooked salmon and shrimp, delicately tossed with olive oil and a splash of vegetable stock, were the shining stars of the pasta dish, with the pesto serving as the galaxy that tied everything together.
In today’s age, where favorite restaurants are often kept secret, I have come to understand the importance of sharing local gems. By spreading the word about these establishments, we not only help them grow but also ensure their survival. I have experienced the regret of beloved restaurants closing down, such as Caffe Falai, Hiroko’s Place, and Tahini, and wished I had promoted them more.
Every time I dine at Da Andrea, the food transports me back to the days when I first discovered it. The flavors are just as exquisite as they were when I was a young student, staining my books with pesto and olive oil. My old seat, which used to be tucked into a corner, is now at the bar where I sometimes enjoy a drink while waiting for my table. Occasionally, the maître d’, whom I have known since my teenage years, leads me to a small table by the bathroom. Despite its location, it remains my favorite seat in the house, accompanied by a basket of delectable house-made focaccia and a carafe of red wine.
In conclusion, Da Andrea exemplifies the concept of a living room restaurant where strangers come together to share an extraordinary culinary experience. The restaurant’s ability to adapt and evolve, as showcased by its pesto recipe, is what sets it apart. By relinquishing the notion of exclusivity and promoting local establishments like Da Andrea, we ensure their longevity and continue to savor the joy of shared spaces.
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