Last year, I found myself standing in line at the Marks & Spencer’s cafe with my tea-loving mother. As we waited, she lamented the fact that they had stopped using the traditional cup and saucer, opting for a mug instead. It may seem trivial to get emotional about kitchenware, but on that day, I understood her sentiment.
Previously, tea at M&S cafes was served in a teapot, poured into delicate china teacups with matching saucers. It brought a touch of elegance to the high street, allowing anyone to indulge in the ceremony of raising their pinky finger while enjoying a carefully served drink. The saucer also provided a convenient resting spot for teaspoons, adding to the comfort of the experience. But now, it had been replaced by a functional, joyless mug. Sure, it was more practical and saved energy, but it also felt like ordinary people were no longer deserving of nice things.
Interestingly, new research suggests that this shift may have been a sign of a larger trend: coffee has surpassed tea as the preferred drink in the UK. Sixty-three percent of consumers now regularly drink coffee compared to 59% who choose tea. This change is largely driven by millennials like myself and Gen Z, who tend to prefer coffee over a traditional cup of tea. However, it is worth noting that this preference is not exclusive to younger generations.
So, what makes coffee so appealing? Is it its inherent versatility? From iced coffee to lattes, flat whites, and even espresso martinis, coffee can suit various occasions. Additionally, the option for latte art adds an extra element of visual appeal. Nevertheless, it is important to acknowledge the popularity of iced tea, alcoholic tea cocktails, bubble tea, and a plethora of herbal tea flavors enjoyed in other parts of the world.
Coffee shops have also played a significant role in the rise of coffee’s popularity. These establishments have become cultural hubs, frequented not only by professionals conducting business meetings but also by students and mothers meeting for coffee mornings. It’s difficult to imagine the same diverse crowd gathering in a traditional tea shop, which often evokes a nostalgic, somewhat unrelatable image of Britain from the past. Interestingly, most coffee shops also offer tea on their menus.
Some may argue that the affinity for coffee among younger generations stems from a desire to emulate liberal European cultures. As a millennial who enjoys a latte while leaning towards left-wing ideologies, I don’t find this theory particularly convincing. After all, both tea and coffee production often involve exploitative labor practices in the global south. Therefore, neither can claim to be the definitive “social justice” beverage of choice.
Furthermore, one could argue that coffee, with its high caffeine content, embodies the spirit of capitalism. It is the go-to drink for individuals navigating the daily grind, constantly seeking productivity. This stands in contrast to tea, which offers a moment of pause, a chance to soothe and unwind. In popular culture, when someone bursts in with shocking news, they are more likely to say, “I’ll put the kettle on,” rather than “I’ll fire up the Nespresso.”
While tea evokes strong emotions, it is not necessarily the drink itself that sparks these debates. Interestingly, in the United States, a traditionally coffee-drinking nation, younger demographics are increasingly opting for tea, suggesting that novelty plays a significant role in shifting drinking habits.
Perhaps, what truly matters is the broader experience surrounding our beloved hot beverages. It’s about the respite they provide, the small acts of kindness we allow ourselves, and the opportunities for connection and camaraderie that come with sharing a pot of coffee or tea. It’s also the chance to appreciate the aesthetics of a beautifully designed espresso cup or a dainty teacup, allowing us to indulge in a bit of whimsy and elegance as we enjoy our favorite brews.
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