Unveiling the Essence: Approachable Sparkling Wine for All | Wine

M
ionetto Valdobbiadene Prosecco Extra Dry, Italy NV (£14.90, Golden Wines)

In the world of sparkling wine, there is a clear distinction between classes. On the top end, you have the aristocracy of Champagne who believe that fine sparkling wine can only be achieved through the méthode champenoise, where the wine undergoes its second fermentation in the bottle. These sparkling wine nobles tend to look down upon Italian winemakers who produce prosecco using the less expensive and less labor-intensive charmat method, where the second fermentation occurs in large, pressurized tanks. Personally, I view the differences as a matter of style rather than quality or class. There are times when the soft, frothy character of a good prosecco, like Mionetto’s, is exactly what I desire.

Bramble Hill Sparkling Wine, England NV (£16, Marks & Spencer)

The distinction between tank and bottle might seem trivial to casual drinkers, but it holds significant importance for those involved. This issue is particularly relevant in the ever-evolving UK wine scene, where the emergence of charmat-method wines has caused controversy. Established British wineries like Nyetimber, Gusbourne, and Ridgeview fear that their hard-earned reputation for high-quality, bottle-fermented sparkling wine will be diminished by what they perceive as a cheap imitator. Personally, I see no issue with expanding England’s range of more affordable sparkling wines, as long as the bottle clearly states the wine’s style, such as the soft and easy English charmat fizz offered by Bramble Hill.

Chapel Down A Touch of Sparkle, Kent, England 2021 (£19.99, or £17.99 as case of six, Majestic)

There is an element of snobbery in the sparkling wine world, with both sides feeling superior to a practice they deem unacceptable – carbonation. It is understandable why they feel this way. Wine’s allure lies in its natural essence, with the belief that good wine consists solely of grapes without any additives or alterations. Carbonation, which involves injecting carbon dioxide into the wine, feels like cheating and places wine in the same category as carbonated beverages such as Coke or, heaven forbid, lager. Moreover, there’s a perception that carbonation is a method used to salvage poor still wines. As someone who has occasionally transformed a lackluster sauvignon blanc into a refreshing summer aperitif with a quick blast from a SodaStream, I am more accepting of carbonation than others. Nevertheless, I believe Chapel Down, a Kentish producer, has created a vibrant blend of bacchus and chardonnay that gives carbonation a positive reputation.

Follow David Williams on Twitter @Daveydaibach