Situated on the peaceful granite boulder beach of Cosy Bay, my companion and guide, Justin Blake, and I take advantage of our break between dives. As we relax with the summer sun at our backs, we admire the breathtaking views of Table Mountain and its National Park running along the Atlantic seaboard to our right. A seal colony on a rocky outcrop adds to the picturesque panorama of this beautiful location.
However, the allure of what lies beneath the water soon pulls us back in. We are about to explore the only giant bamboo kelp forest on Earth – a truly unique experience. Justin Blake, an esteemed South African marine biologist and shark scientist, asks if I am ready to continue our underwater adventure. His expertise and knowledge of Cape Town’s coastline and marine life are invaluable, as his life’s work has been dedicated to the study of these magnificent creatures.
Equipped with snorkel, mask, and fins, we glide into the cool, turquoise waters of the Atlantic, immersing ourselves once again in the Great African Seaforest. Stretching over 1,000km from the Cape to Namibia, these kelp forests cover a quarter of the world’s marine coastlines. Not only do they harbor a diverse array of marine life, but they also act as vital carbon sinks, absorbing more carbon per acre than terrestrial forests.
These inshore waters are part of the Table Mountain National Park Marine Protected Area. Surprisingly, only 2.9% of the world’s oceans are fully or significantly protected from fishing impacts, despite the immense benefits these ecosystems provide. Justin Blake is determined to increase these protected areas. His efforts in Mozambique have already led to the doubling in size of a marine reserve through a shark-tagging research project.
Inspired by his passion for ocean conservation and marine reserve creation, Blake founded the RockHopper Fund in 2018. All funds raised through the organization support scientific exploration in this field. The Fund has already gained popularity with its paid offerings, such as Blake’s highly acclaimed shark talk, which has garnered over 1,200 five-star reviews.
In addition to these offerings, RockHopper also provides in-person experiences and adventures. Their newest venture, launched in partnership with the esteemed Belmond hotel, Mount Nelson, is called “A Day in the Life of a Marine Biologist.” This unique experience allows hotel guests to join Blake on a personalized tour that matches their sense of adventure. The exploration of the coastline in a rigid inflatable boat adds a thrilling element to the educational experience. Families with curious children and those seeking a sea-bound adventure have already shown great interest in this new offering.
My own trip with Blake is a one-on-one experience, and my main objective is to encounter sharks. The kelp forests in this area are home to nine mostly harmless species, but the elusive seven-gill cow shark can reach lengths of up to three meters. However, due to the rough conditions caused by a large swell and strong winds, we are unable to venture out on the boat or dive in False Bay, making a shark sighting unlikely, especially of a larger species.
Two decades ago, great white sharks were a common sight along Cape Town’s coastline. However, overfishing and pollution have significantly reduced their population. These sharks now prefer the warmer waters of the Indian Ocean, a few hundred kilometers up the coast to the east of Cape Town, due to their inability to control their body temperature. Additionally, orca attacks on great whites in recent years have further diminished their presence in local waters.
Despite these factors, the possibility of an encounter is never entirely ruled out. As we venture further away from the shoreline, exploring denser kelp, the excitement of the unknown intensifies. We find ourselves in waters about 15 meters deep, free-diving and snorkeling in potentially shark-infested areas. Surprisingly, I feel remarkably relaxed as I dive deeper, always conscious of preserving oxygen and extending my dive time. Throughout the morning, I notice improvement in my abilities, reaching depths of around 10 meters and remaining submerged for approximately a minute.
As I resurface, I am greeted by a stunning overhang nestled between colossal kelp trunks. Every inch of this underwater tapestry is teeming with life – anemones, sea urchins, starfish, soft corals, and sponges. I find myself captivated by the kaleidoscope of colors and forms surrounding me. It becomes evident that the real treasure of this experience is the abundance of lesser-known wildlife thriving in this magnificent underwater forest.
Out of the corner of my eye, I spot Blake signaling for me to follow him on another dive. Among the dense kelp fronds, we discover a shyshark hidden away. Although small in size, less than a meter long, it is a captivating sight and my first encounter with a wild shark. Its dark brown, rough skin, patterned like an arrowhead, makes for a mesmerizing sight. Unconcerned by my presence, the shark allows me to observe it from a closer vantage point.
After surfacing for air and another dive to catch another glimpse of our newfound friend, we decide to conclude our two-hour underwater adventure. Back at Blake’s 4×4, we shed our wetsuits and make our way to Cape Point Nature Reserve, a short distance away. This reserve boasts over 1,100 different plant species, making it one of the world’s most diverse floral kingdoms. The beauty of this place is further enhanced by the presence of ostriches, troops of baboons, porcupines, and zebras.
We make our way to Venus Pool, a large rock pool known for its beauty and shelter during inclement weather. Just a few hundred meters offshore in False Bay, we witness a thrilling scene – seabirds dive-bombing and dolphins leaping as they chase a bait ball. Blake explains that guests on the marine biologist tour have the opportunity to witness these incredible animals up close by being in the right place at the right time.
While the prospect of such an experience is undoubtedly exciting, it is Blake himself who truly makes the day special, no matter the activity. Whether it’s swimming with dolphins, learning about Cape marine life, or tracking tagged sharks using acoustic technology, his expertise, easy-going nature, and sense of humor ensure a memorable and enjoyable day.
As we relax back at Mount Nelson, a renowned Belmond hotel, with a refreshing sundowner and some biltong on the stylish terrace, I reflect on the experience. Although my initial goal was to swim with sharks and seek exhilaration, I realize that what has truly left an impact on me is the crucial role of conservation in all aspects of our lives. The need to protect and preserve our oceans and marine life is evident throughout this adventure, and it is a cause that resonates deeply within me.
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