I firmly believe that venturing into the unknown is beneficial for the mind, which is why I am embarking on a new journey: for the next three months, I will be editing and reporting on The Times’s Live desk, known for its breaking news coverage. Therefore, I will be temporarily stepping away from the Food section and this newsletter. However, fear not, you will be left in the capable hands of Pete Wells, The Times’s esteemed restaurant critic, who will share his vast dining expertise that may not always fit into a weekly review. Isn’t that exciting?
So, this is not a goodbye, but rather an au revoir, see you soon, brb. As a parting gift, I wanted to share with you a list of the best dishes I have had the pleasure of eating in the past eight months. I will be back with you in November.
My favorite local gem:
While compiling our recent guide “Where to Eat in New York City This Summer,” I had the opportunity to explore various neighborhoods in the city. My most memorable day was spent in Queens. It all began at Empanadas Cafe in Corona, where the atmosphere was delightful and the locals gathered for helados made with real fruit. The empanadas were equally incredible, especially the sweet-plantain-and-cheese variation in a white flour shell.
A hidden treasure in TriBeCa:
Brasserie Fouquet’s New York, tucked away in a TriBeCa hotel, often gets overlooked due to the abundance of French dining options. However, this Parisian import is the closest you can get to dining on the Champs-Élysées without boarding a plane. The Dover sole meunière is a testament to the restaurant’s excellence. N’hésitez pas.
Preparing for bean season:
Before you know it, bean season, or as I like to call it, “beason,” will be upon us. It is crucial to know where to find the best beans. In a pinch, try the butter beans at Leo. However, for a truly comforting and flavorful experience, make an appointment to savor the Sorana beans at Foul Witch, accompanied by a herby salsa verde. Don’t forget to ask for some crusty bread to complement this delightful dish.
The dessert of the year (so far):
Bananas and I have a complex relationship. While I would never eat one on its own, I am a fan of their flavor (hence my love for banana Laffy Taffys). Desserts featuring bananas usually don’t catch my attention, but the banana tart with caramel and salted Nilla Wafers at Cafe Camellia in Williamsburg changed that. It truly awakened my taste buds, and now I proudly declare myself a member of Team Banana.
Memorable brunch experiences:
This year, I had two outstanding brunches that are unfortunately no longer available. First was the short-lived brunch at Bonnie’s, which caused more headaches for the restaurant than it was worth. Nevertheless, I am grateful for the opportunity to try their golden lava French toast with salted duck egg custard, as well as their brunched-up version of naw mai fan sticky rice (the non-brunch version is still available for dinner). I am also eagerly awaiting the reopening of Gjelina New York, scheduled for “late 2023” according to their Instagram account. I must indulge in their smoked salmon plate and lemon buckwheat ricotta pancakes once again. Plus, where else can you witness the city’s most beautiful people enjoying a stunning brunch?
That’s all for now, but I will be back with you soon. In the meantime, please be kind to Pete and continue to explore the incredible dining options in New York. Stay adventurous!
In Other News…
– Nar, located near the Flatiron district, is introducing Turkish cuisine and wines to Manhattan.
– Púsù, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, offers vegetarian Chinese dishes with influences from Shanghai, Canton, and Northwestern China.
– The Tipsy Baker, located at Rockefeller Plaza, is an exciting new venture from Pain d’Avignon.
Priya Krishna and Eleanore Park have reported on the increasing availability of the life-saving drug Narcan in bars and restaurants, as public incidents of fentanyl overdoses continue to rise.
Is your restaurant bill starting to resemble a CVS receipt? Christina Morales investigates the latest charge that restaurant owners are implementing: a credit card fee.
If you consider yourself a hot dog enthusiast, be sure to read J.J. Goode’s field guide to 15 regional American specialties and the establishments where you can find them. It’s time to plan your next culinary adventure!
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