During our journey back from a recent wedding, we made a quick stop in Livorno, a charming city on the west coast of Tuscany. Our purpose was simple: refuel the car, take a couple of laps around Piazza della Repubblica, stretch our bodies, and indulge in the delightful 5 e 5 bun from the renowned Da Gagarin bakery.
Nestled just behind the beautiful mercato centrale, the full name of this historic establishment is Antica Torteria Al Mercato Da Gagarin. A torteria, a word commonly used in Livorno, refers to a place that specializes in making torte. These torte are round, flat, baked delicacies. On the other hand, a tortiera is the object used for baking these scrumptious treats, typically a round tray with a low lip. At Da Gagarin, their tortiere are made of brass, resembling crash cymbals, and are specifically used for baking their signature torta di ceci. The process is fascinating to witness, as the chickpea flour and water batter is poured into the tortiere on a work surface situated behind the counter. Simultaneously, just-cooked torte are being delicately removed from the narrow mouth of the wood oven.
Torta di ceci is a part of the chickpea flour and water family of torte, a collection of baked goods associated with coastal towns, hinting at a history of seafaring migration. Palermo has its panelle, which might have originated from Arab domination in Sicily during the ninth century. These are made by cooking a thick batter of chickpea flour and water, sometimes with parsley, which is then cut into squares and deep-fried. Liguria, particularly La Spezia, has its own version called panissa, which follows a similar preparation method. Nice and Genova offer their versions known as socca and farinata, respectively, both made with a simple batter of chickpea flour and water, whisked, rested, poured, and baked with generous amounts of olive oil until golden. Fainè and cecina, both typical of Sassari in north-western Sardinia, are other examples of these delectable treats made from batter. In Pisa, however, it is torta di ceci that one should ask for, despite being only 19 km away from Livorno.
Chickpea flour, produced by grinding raw or roasted chickpeas (a coffee grinder does the job as well), possesses a straw-yellow color and a fine texture similar to talcum and cocoa powders. It has a remarkable delicacy, making a finger seemingly disappear upon contact. When mixed with water, the aromas of chickpeas and grass stems are intensified. The most satisfying recipes often involve these ordinary miracles, although doubts may arise when the batter appears too thin. However, it is imperative to have faith.
Returning to Da Gagarin, the name may be torta di ceci, but the order is always “5 e 5”, a name that originates from a time when the price was five lire. This refers to five lire worth of torta sandwiched between five lire worth of bread. Although the price has changed, the tradition remains. The torta itself is the size of a crash cymbal, with a vibrant, flaky top and a custard-like softness within. It is sliced into small curved pieces, reminiscent of arcs or moons, and piled onto rolls, reminiscent of the oven-bottom cakes popular in Oldham during the late 1970s. Before receiving our warm bundles, we are asked if we would like black pepper, to which our answer is a resounding “yes.” A shower of black flecks is added, enhancing the flavors. The tiles lining the wall share the exact same color as the torta di ceci, as does the string curtain we pass through on our way back to the car.
Here is a recipe to recreate the delightful torta di ceci experience at home:
Torta di Ceci, or Chickpea Flour Pancakes (in a sandwich)
Serves 4
– 200g chickpea (or gram) flour
– Salt
– 6-8 tbsp olive oil
– 4 soft bread rolls
– Black pepper
Instructions:
1. Whisk the flour and 600ml water until you have a smooth, lump-free batter. Add a big pinch of salt and let it sit for 15 minutes to an hour. For longer, up to 24 hours, cover and refrigerate.
2. Pour the olive oil into a nonstick tin measuring 27cm x 22cm (or a pizza-sized tin with a low lip). The oil will swirl like a lava lamp as you pour in the batter, which should be approximately 5mm deep.
3. Bake at 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 for 30-40 minutes, until the tip is firm and flaky, the edges are crisp, but the inside remains creamy.
4. Use a spatula or fish slice to cut a square or circular portion that fits inside a soft roll, and don’t forget to add black pepper.
Please note that on August 14, 2023, the article was amended to correct the suggested shape of the baking tin. It is not round, as previously stated.
Enjoy the delightful torta di ceci experience in the comfort of your own home, and savor the flavors of this traditional Tuscan treat.
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