Sign up now to receive exclusive updates on eating and drinking in Copenhagen. We’ll send you a daily email summarizing the latest news in the food scene. Copenhagen is a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts. With its incredible selection of smørrebrød and indulgent bakeries, it’s no wonder that the city is known for its exceptional dining experiences. Despite its small size, Copenhagen boasts an impressive number of fine-dining restaurants that rival those in much larger cities. The New Nordic cuisine movement, which emphasizes seasonal and often foraged ingredients, has gained immense popularity in the past few decades. René Redzepi and his restaurant Noma have been at the forefront of this movement, earning acclaim and numerous Michelin stars. However, with Noma set to close its doors at the end of 2024, other restaurants are ready to take the spotlight. Geranium, which topped the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2022 and holds three Michelin stars, is definitely a standout. There are also other candidates worth exploring, such as Kadeau, which stays true to the New Nordic tradition, and Alchemist, which offers a unique and theatrical dining experience. It’s not uncommon to find visitors spending a week in Copenhagen solely focused on trying out the city’s top-notch sushi and French haute cuisine. Unfortunately, the fine-dining industry in Copenhagen, like many others, has been marred by reports of poor working conditions. The Financial Times conducted an investigation last year that shed light on these issues. In response, chefs and restaurants in the city have taken steps to address the criticisms. Most fine-dining establishments now have limited operating hours to ensure proper rest for their staff, and some have moved away from relying on unpaid interns. It’s a positive shift towards creating a more sustainable and equitable work environment. Chefs like Nicolai Nørregaard of Kadeau refute the notion that fine dining is unsustainable, highlighting their own practices that prioritize staff well-being. The prices at these establishments are understandably high, with meals at Michelin-starred restaurants typically costing at least DKr2,000–DKr3,000 ($295–$440/£230–£350), plus an additional DKr2,000 for drinks. Balancing the cost with the labor-related concerns in the industry may be a challenge for some diners. However, the exceptional quality of cuisine in Copenhagen is undeniable. The city’s culinary scene showcases a remarkable combination of skill, top-quality ingredients, and ambition. In this series, FT Globetrotter will shine a spotlight on three of the most prominent restaurants in Copenhagen, with more to be added in the future. We invite you to share your favorite fine-dining experience in Copenhagen in the comments below, and don’t forget to follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotterCities for more insights on the world’s greatest cities.
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