Greubel Forsey, the independent watch brand founded by Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, is making progress in its 10-year plan announced by CEO Antonio Calce earlier this year. The company is introducing new models, increasing production strategically, and refocusing distribution on flagship stores. However, fans have learned that 25 out of the 30 movements produced by the brand since its inception in 2004 will be discontinued, and all new movements will have a maximum production period of five years.
Calce emphasized the importance of rarity and exclusivity, stating that collectors need to know the limited availability of each timepiece from the beginning. The brand plans to produce three to 88 pieces of each reference and aims to produce a total of 400 to 500 timepieces per year. Thirty percent of these timepieces will be priced over $500,000, with the rest falling in the $180,000 to $400,000 range.
In the current year, Greubel Forsey expects to produce 260 watches, a significant increase from the 100 produced per year when Calce took over as CEO. The 2023 production will include three additions to the Convexe collection. Two new models, the Double Balancier Convexe in titanium and the Balancier Convexe S2 Titanium, have already been introduced. Another model, the Double Balancier Convexe in carbon, will be launched this month as the brand’s first carbon case.
Calce highlighted the focus on improving hand finishing throughout the collection as exemplified by the Convexe iterations. Greubel Forsey is known for spending two to three days polishing a single component, and the brand aims to continue enhancing this aspect of craftsmanship. For instance, Calce mentioned that the inside bezel of the Balancier S2 is 100 percent polished.
Greubel Forsey is recognized for its innovative approach to watchmaking. The founders, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, have always aimed to make significant contributions to the horological world. Calce mentioned that they excel in creativity but needed someone to fill the role of a manager. Calce, with his previous experience as CEO of Corum and Girard-Perregaux, now serves as the CEO, while Greubel holds the position of president and Forsey acts as the technical director, occasionally offering input on older models.
The brand’s innovative developments continue with the introduction of the Tourbillon Cardan in October. This timepiece features two tourbillon cages suspended in a 20-millimeter structure, resembling a gimbal. The patented arrangement allows the cages to tilt at separate angles, enhancing the tourbillon’s timekeeping accuracy by compensating for the detrimental effect of gravity.
Another upcoming innovation is the convex-case constant force chronograph, set to be released in 2023. Typically, the energy required for the chronograph affects the amplitude, which, in turn, impacts the watch’s precision. However, Greubel Forsey’s constant force system ensures that the amplitude and precision remain constant. Calce mentioned that the brand has never produced a chronograph before, and in 2024, they will introduce two.
Other projects in development include Hand Made 2 and Hand Made 3, one of which will be a chronograph, gear trains made of gold, and the Courve Greubel Forsey, a new balance spiral to increase timekeeping precision. The brand aims to introduce the Courve Greubel Forsey next year, which would revolutionize the industry as the majority has been using the same curve since its invention by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795.
To facilitate development efforts, Greubel Forsey integrated CompliTime, a subsidiary that produced timepieces for other brands, into its operations last year. This consolidation allows all 140 staff members to focus solely on the main brand. Additionally, the staff is expected to grow to 220 once the company’s headquarters is expanded.
The brand’s ownership also experienced a change, with Greubel, Forsey, and Calce buying back the 20 percent owned by luxury group Richemont. This change, along with the expansion of the headquarters, will enable an increase in the brand’s autonomy. Greubel Forsey already produces most of its parts, and starting in 2024, they will manufacture all balance wheels in-house. The brand also plans to produce its own cases once the building extension is completed.
In terms of retail, Greubel Forsey is transitioning from multibrand stores to flagship stores operated by retail partners. The goal is to have 12 to 15 standalone stores by the end of next year. This shift aims to provide a better representation of the brand and create immersive experiences for clients. Tokyo’s Ginza neighborhood will be the first location to have a boutique, followed by a store in Mexico City’s Polanco neighborhood. The brand’s first store in the United States is planned for Middle Plaza in Menlo Park, California.
Overall, Greubel Forsey continues to push boundaries and redefine the art of watchmaking with its innovative designs and dedication to craftsmanship.
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