This article is a part of FT Globetrotter’s comprehensive guide to New York. It’s a misty and serene summer day at the easternmost tip of Long Island, referred to as “The End” on tourist sweatshirts. This spot, known for its fresh seafood and party boats, is a popular weekend destination for tired Manhattanites. Montauk, a quiet seaside village with a population of just over 4,000 people, springs to life come Memorial Day. Colorful umbrellas line its sandy shores, and surfers patiently wait for waves in the ocean. Bars overflow with young adults until the early hours of the morning, including iconic spots like Memory Motel and The Surf Lodge. On Sundays, Duryea’s Lobster Deck is a slightly less busy option. Situated on the northwestern side of the Montauk Peninsula, this classic seafood joint provides a magical experience as you savor a delicious lobster roll while a storm rolls in over Fort Pond Bay. However, the spell is somewhat broken when you receive the check, which amounts to $49 excluding tip.
In the past, Montauk held a more bohemian atmosphere compared to its nearby affluent neighbor, the Hamptons. However, in recent years, flashy financiers and DJ-ing bank executives have also discovered the appeal of this surfer’s paradise, leading to an increase in prices. Duryea’s, a famous Montauk institution that had been in the same family for 80 years, was bought by billionaire Marc Rowan in 2014. This change of ownership exemplifies the transition experienced by many family-run businesses in Montauk, as wealthy investors inject money into the area.
Rowan’s investment in the lobster industry, despite legal disputes with the town, has paid off. The influx of new money into Montauk has allowed this New England delicacy, traditionally known for its affordable price, to gain a cult-like following in the affluent beach town and its neighboring enclaves. Lobster, whether steamed and served whole or chopped up in a roll, has become a symbol of both summer and status.
However, lobster hasn’t always been an expensive luxury. In the 16th century, English settlers considered lobster to be abundant and comparable to Spam. It was often used as fishing bait or eaten as a staple by the poor. With the development of the commercial fishing industry, leftover lobsters became a cheap and convenient meal for seafarers. So, how did lobster rolls transform from a humble and affordable meal to a lunchtime luxury?
The exact origin of the lobster roll is a subject of debate among East Coast restaurateurs. While there is no definitive proof, it is believed that Perry’s, a restaurant in Milford, Connecticut, likely originated the hot version of the lobster roll in the 1920s. However, the true pioneers of this dish were probably a group of hungry fishermen on an Atlantic boat, a moment that is lost to history.
The lobster roll gained fame in New York thanks in part to chef Rebecca Charles, a native New Yorker who brought the New England delicacy to Manhattan’s West Village with the opening of the Pearl Oyster Bar in 1997.
The rising cost of lobster rolls can be attributed to several factors. Lobsters are difficult to farm commercially, requiring five to seven years to reach a legal size and being vulnerable to diseases. Reliance on wild-caught lobsters also leads to increased costs associated with fuel, labor, and shipping. However, the high price tag can be worth it if you know where to go.
In the ongoing debate between cold lobster rolls with mayo (Maine style) and hot butter-doused ones (Connecticut style), I remain neutral. As a New Yorker, I have no allegiance to either. The quality of the lobster itself is what truly matters in this simple yet delectable dish.
Having explored numerous spots in Long Island’s South Fork, including The Hamptons and Montauk, I have narrowed down the options to the most worthy ones.
The Clam Bar, located near the Lobster Roll, offers a refreshingly no-frills experience. Despite its simplicity, this counter service-only shack has a diverse menu, featuring fried clam strips, oysters, shrimp, and clams from the sea. Their hot lobster roll, overflowing with claw and knuckle meat poached in garlic butter, is a delight. However, the pièce de résistance is the additional melted garlic butter for dipping, making it my favorite of the trip.
The Dock House in Sag Harbor, a quintessential American village in the Hamptons, offers a cold lobster roll with mayonnaise-coated lobster chunks, celery, and onion. The bun perfectly complements the generous amount of lobster, creating a satisfying and nostalgic experience.
Lastly, The Lobster Roll in Amagansett presents a vibrant atmosphere that is pet-friendly. The restaurant’s signature lobster roll, served hot or cold, maintains the balance between the flavorful lobster meat and the accompanying ingredients.
In conclusion, the evolution of the lobster roll from an affordable meal to a luxury item is a testament to its enduring popularity. While the price may be steep, a well-made lobster roll is a culinary experience that should not be missed when visiting the picturesque beaches of Long Island.
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