Taiwan, officially known as the Republic of China, is a self-ruling island that is home to 24 million people. However, due to China’s claim on Taiwan as one of its provinces, only a few countries recognize it as a separate nation. Internationally, Taiwan is referred to as “Chinese Taipei” and is recognized under this name at the Olympic Games. Despite the ambiguity surrounding Taiwan’s nationhood, there is a growing sense of Taiwanese identity among its population. According to a recent survey by National Chengchi University, over 60 percent of individuals in Taiwan identify as Taiwanese, while approximately 30 percent identify as both Chinese and Taiwanese. Only a small percentage identify exclusively as Chinese.
The question arises – what defines Taiwanese identity? How do Taiwanese people create a unified narrative about their identity, and how do they reconcile with their Chinese heritage? For many, the answer lies in their cuisine. Food plays a crucial role in shaping Taiwanese culture and identity, and in recent years, there has been a marked effort to promote and revive traditional Taiwanese cuisine. Restaurateurs, writers, and scholars are working to establish Taiwanese cuisine as a distinct culinary culture, incorporating local ingredients and techniques, particularly from Indigenous communities.
This movement aims to showcase a Taiwanese identity that is organic, tangible, and deeply rooted in everyday life. Through their culinary endeavors, they seek not only recognition for Taiwan as a nation but also as a unique cultural entity. Food allows the Taiwanese people to “taste and feel” their sense of nationhood, as noted by food historian Yu-Jen Chen.
Ian Lee, owner and executive chef of the HoSu Restaurant in Taipei, exemplifies this sentiment. Through his menu, he expresses his love for Taiwan and its natural beauty, using local produce and honoring Indigenous culinary traditions. By showcasing the wonder and vibrancy of Taiwan through his food, Lee believes he can strengthen the connection between Taiwanese people and their homeland. He hopes that this connection will inspire a sense of national identity and readiness to protect Taiwan in the face of potential threats from China.
Food and politics are inseparable, as seen throughout history. Mexico’s cuisine played a pivotal role in shaping its national identity following its independence from Spain. Similarly, Chinese leader Xi Jinping recognized the political significance of ensuring food security for the public. In Taiwan, the concept of Taiwanese cuisine emerged as a way to distinguish it from the cuisine brought by the island’s former Japanese colonizers in the early 20th century. Under the rule of the Kuomintang, Taiwanese cuisine held a lower status compared to regional Chinese cuisines. However, with the advent of democracy and a greater emphasis on inclusion, Taiwanese cuisine began to flourish, incorporating the diverse influences within the country.
Today, defining Taiwanese cuisine is complex and subjective. It varies from individual to individual, reflecting personal experiences and cultural backgrounds. Ching-yi Chen, a food writer in Taipei, organized an event where attendees were asked to bring a dish they considered to be Taiwanese cuisine. The responses varied widely, highlighting the inclusive nature of Taiwanese cuisine. The reinterpretation and fusion of culinary traditions, such as incorporating miso soup into Taiwanese meals, further add to the complexity of defining Taiwanese cuisine.
Reconciling with Chinese heritage is one of the most challenging aspects of Taiwanese cuisine and identity. Many Taiwanese people acknowledge their Chinese ancestry while dissociating from the Chinese government. Taiwanese society embraces inclusivity, and this is reflected in its cuisine, which allows for fusion and diversity. Jewel Tsai, another Taipei food writer, aptly describes Taiwanese cuisine as ever-expanding, making its definition an ongoing process.
One movement within Taiwanese cuisine seeks to elevate traditional Taiwanese dishes that were marginalized during periods of political repression. Mountain and Sea House, a fine-dining restaurant in Taipei, has revived century-old recipes and reintroduced traditional Taiwanese banquet dishes. Notably, Indigenous cooking and ingredients have also gained recognition in recent years. Indigenous groups represent a small percentage of Taiwan’s population but play a significant role in the narrative of Taiwanese nationhood, emphasizing that Taiwan has unique origins beyond Chinese culture.
Mr. Lee, in his efforts to elevate Indigenous cuisine, draws inspiration from Ukraine’s fight against Russian dominance, believing that a strong sense of identity and connection to the homeland will deter aggression. Similarly, he sees each Taiwanese individual as an essential component of a functioning system, emphasizing the importance of tightening these connections to ensure a smooth operation and discourage external threats.
Taiwan’s inclusive society and cuisine reflect the country’s values of diversity and unity. From its multitude of languages to its progressive stance on issues like same-sex marriage, Taiwan stands as a testament to its inclusive nature. The ever-expanding nature of Taiwanese cuisine parallels this ethos, making it a continuous journey of exploration and growth.
In conclusion, Taiwan’s cuisine serves as a powerful tool in shaping and expressing Taiwanese identity. Restaurateurs, writers, and scholars are working to establish Taiwanese cuisine as a distinct culinary culture, rooted in traditional practices and incorporating local ingredients. Through food, the Taiwanese people taste and embrace their sense of nationhood, while also seeking recognition as a unique cultural entity. Taiwan’s cuisine is a reflection of its inclusive society, constantly evolving and embracing diverse influences. In navigating its Chinese heritage, Taiwan’s people strive to maintain a strong connection to their homeland, promoting a collective sense of identity and fostering resilience in the face of potential threats.
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