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During my various visits to Piedmont, I have indulged in the pleasure of tasting and savoring some of the finest wines available to humanity, as famously described by Withnail. These tasting experiences have naturally sparked my curiosity in the region’s cuisine. I have relished numerous plates of tajarin, a variety of tagliatelle, generously topped with white truffles, dishes of fonduta with the same delightful addition, and heaps of carne cruda, adorned with the pungent tuber. Yet, despite my ventures in Piedmont, I have never come across a plate of Piedmontese peppers, which have gained fame outside the region thanks to the efforts of Elizabeth David, Franco Taruschio, Simon Hopkinson, and the revered Delia. Interestingly enough, I believe there is a higher chance of encountering this dish in Hackney rather than in Turin.
There is an explanation for this peculiar phenomenon. Throughout Piedmont, where vines aren’t found, small vegetable patches are abundant. It’s clear that locals have a deep fondness for their verdura, yet it remains absent from restaurant menus. One might assume that Italian chefs consider vegetables to be beneath their culinary expertise, favoring pasta or protein instead.
One cliché about Piedmontese cuisine that holds true is their love for anchovies, despite their geographical distance from the sea. In Alba, chicken “salad” consists of sliced chicken breast dressed with mustard (a rarity in Italy), anchovies, and, of course, white truffles. Similarly, rice salad in Novara incorporates rice, anchovies, a hint of garlic, parsley, and the expected “un bel tartufo d’Alba”. Even a warm dish in Piedmont, known as bagna càuda, is an amalgamation of olive oil, butter, garlic, and anchovies. It is this unique blend that makes Piedmontese peppers, whether found in Piedmont or not, truly captivating.
Piedmontese Peppers
Serves 6 as an appetizer or as part of a spread
For this recipe, I usually use Dutch peppers, despite their unfavorable reputation. While they may not be the most flavorsome, they possess sweetness and a fleshy texture that complements the bold flavors of anchovy and garlic. The inclusion of yellow peppers is primarily for
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