Review: The Midland Grand Dining Room Restaurant – A Remarkable Station Dining Experience

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This marks my third visit to The Midland Grand Dining Room, an establishment that has undergone a remarkable transformation. Previously known as Marcus Wareing’s The Gilbert Scott, it masterfully combined English elegance with the charm of a French railway station brasserie. However, I must confess that my initial visit was an act of trespass.

Let’s delve into a bit of history. Legend has it that the Midland Grand Hotel was the final hotel in London built on the expectation of having an abundance of servants to attend to chamber pots and fetch hot shaving water. Sadly, the business faltered shortly after its completion. Thanks to the tireless efforts of individuals like Jane Fawcett, Nikolaus Pevsner, and John Betjeman, the hotel was listed for preservation in 1967. While this ensured its survival, it also condemned it to a state of disrepair for decades as no one could agree on how to modernize it and make it economically viable. Thus, the Midland Grand Hotel remained abandoned.

It was more than just a derelict building; it was a crumbling behemoth that resembled the fantastical Gormenghast of St Pancras, replete with steampunk influences and a hauntingly beautiful brick-and-iron skeleton. In the days before the turn of the century, I, like many other architectural enthusiasts, ventured through the busted door hidden behind a hoarding on Midland Road. Armed with a large police flashlight, I navigated past rough sleepers and drug-shooting sites, eventually finding myself ankle-deep in dead pigeons. And there, in awe, I stood, mesmerized by the double spiral staircase ascending through three floors.

However, the scene has changed dramatically. The Midland Grand Dining Room has been reborn as a hotel, apartments, and a collection of stunning bars. The dining room itself has been restored to its original double height, featuring a gentle curve along the western wing and illuminated by high ecclesiastical windows. The moment you step into this restaurant, much like when you catch sight of that breathtaking staircase, an involuntary gasp escapes your lips.

Leading the charge in this great Gothic establishment is chef Patrick Powell, whose culinary mastery has already been demonstrated at Chiltern Firehouse and Allegra. Emma Underwood, formerly of The Pem, commands the front of house with a touch of magic that seems entirely effortless.

Now, let’s dive into the culinary experience, starting with the perennially debated pâté en croûte du jour. I have always maintained that the classic PEC is akin to a French pork pie. Of course, purists argue that the pastry differs, and I concede that the classic hot water crust pastry is indeed superior. However, the interior, technically referred to as a farce, remains identical, aside from a hint of garlic or mace here and there.

That was, at least, my long-standing prejudice until today. On this occasion, the croûte contained a delicate, jellied terrine of rabbit and chicken, an outstanding creation that certainly doesn’t call for a hard-boiled egg to be shoved through it. What truly elevated the dish was the celeriac remoulade, boasting fresh mayo infused with assertive tarragon. And I must admit, the miniature cornichons elicited an embarrassingly unmanly squeal of delight — they were just so cute!

I have an undeniable fondness for robust, gastropub-style crab toast — the rich, iron-tinged flavors of dark meat that may repel others but only intensify my enjoyment. However, what I encountered at The Midland Grand Dining Room was an entirely different experience. Picture a crustless square of fortified bread, perhaps an airy brioche, fried to perfection like pain perdu, and then adorned with the purest, snow-white crabmeat. Chilled but still emanating the essence of recently steamed crab, it retained all of its natural sweetness. Just in case the message wasn’t clear enough, a pool of coral-pink cream sauce infused with delicate shellfish flavors and a hint of elderflower completed the masterpiece. This dish did more than simply satisfy my taste buds; it challenged my preconceptions and proved, beyond a doubt, that a great shellfish dish can be defined by its inherent sweetness.

As someone who has dabbled in fly-fishing, primarily in the American mountains rather than in the UK, where access to fashionable beats proved financially prohibitive, I am always filled with joy when I spot “chalk stream trout” on a menu. In my limited experience, the trout that can be caught in chalk streams are small, wild brown trout that possess an exquisite taste that, unfortunately, one rarely gets the chance to try. Therefore, it was initially disappointing to be presented with a sizable piece of farmed rainbow trout on the plate. However, I quickly discovered that “chalk stream” now refers to a fish farm that utilizes water sourced from a chalk stream. Given the current state of pollution in Britain’s rivers, perhaps this linguistic sleight of hand is for the best. Regardless, the trout was impeccably cooked, boasting a clean and delightful flavor. It was served with sorrel, a beurre blanc emulsion with vermouth for added fragrance, and a touch of smoked butter that hinted at a cozy riverside campfire.

Lastly, I was treated to a soufflé, which happened to be the special of the day. Such rarities have become increasingly scarce in London’s culinary scene. Yet, I find myself drawn to them, relishing the element of surprise they bring. It conveys a sense of effort and creativity, offering the promise that, upon my return, a new and exciting dish will await me. I’m already contemplating a revisit tomorrow. As for today, I luxuriate in the presence of a deep mauve soufflé — flawlessly risen and beautifully browned — infused with forest fruits and accompanied by a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream, the perfect complement.

I have enjoyed many delightful moments in the grand old restaurants near the Paris stations. They possess an uncanny ability to welcome you to the city or make you wish you could stay forever. If The Midland Grand Dining Room serves as the initial encounter for French visitors, rest assured that they will find comfort and pride in British hospitality.

Stay connected with Tim on Twitter @TimHayward and feel free to email him at [email protected]

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