Ben Hodges, formerly of the renowned River Cafe, served as my first head chef. His expertise lay in Moorish cuisine, which he mastered during his extensive time in southern Spain. My own culinary creations continue to draw inspiration from Middle Eastern flavors, although I prioritize the inclusion of local, seasonal, whole foods and byproducts to minimize waste. Today’s recipe is a modified version of one I developed for Cook for Syria, a remarkable cookbook and campaign supporting Unicef’s humanitarian efforts in Syria. In this recipe, falafel serves as the perfect canvas for utilizing juice pulp, resulting in visually stunning and waste-reducing fritters that celebrate both taste and sustainability.
Juice Pulp Falafel
While immersing myself in the culinary traditions of Syria for my contribution to the Cook for Syria book, I discovered that their falafel often take the form of small doughnuts. Taking inspiration from this, I have followed suit in this recipe. The doughnut shape ensures even cooking of the falafel and creates a delectable vessel for extra tahini sauce. Incorporating juice pulp not only enhances the flavor but also lends a vibrant color to the falafel. When juicing at home, one often ends up with a surplus of fruit and vegetable mash. This highly nutritious byproduct, brimming with fiber, presents an opportunity to minimize waste. Consequently, whenever I juice, I conscientiously plan to repurpose the leftovers. In this recipe, this previously discarded product not only boosts nutrition and flavor but also adds substance to the falafel mixture. If you lack a juicer, you can obtain pulp from a local juice shop or simply substitute grated vegetables instead.
Yields 16
200g dried chickpeas
½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
100g juice pulp (or grated vegetables)
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
2⅔ tbsp (10g) coriander, stalks and leaves roughly chopped
1½ tbsp chickpea flour, or other flour (optional)
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted and roughly ground
1 tsp salt
Vegetable oil, for deep frying
To serve (all optional)
Flatbreads
Tahini sauce
Chilli sauce
Chopped or sliced tomatoes
Chopped or sliced cucumber
Fresh coriander
Pickles
Begin by soaking the chickpeas and bicarbonate of soda in a large bowl or pan of water for approximately eight hours. Drain and gently dry using a tea towel, then transfer to a blender. Add the juice pulp, chopped garlic, coriander stalks and leaves, flour, baking powder, toasted ground cumin, and salt. Blend for a minute or until a coarse paste forms. Transfer the mixture to a bowl. Divide and shape the mixture into roughly 16 patties, using a skewer to create a hole in the center of each patty. Arrange the patties on a tray and refrigerate.
In a medium saucepan, pour vegetable oil to a depth of approximately 2.5cm and heat over medium heat. If you have a thermometer, the oil should reach 180°C. Otherwise, test the oil by dropping in a small pinch of the falafel mixture – if it bubbles and rises to the top, the oil is sufficiently hot. Fry the falafel in batches to maintain the oil’s temperature, turning after a minute or two. Once the falafel are golden brown on all sides, use a slotted spoon to remove them from the oil. Drain on kitchen paper and transfer to a warmed bowl. Repeat with the remaining falafel mixture. Serve the falafel hot with flatbreads, yogurt, and an array of accompaniments like chopped tomatoes, sliced cucumbers, fresh coriander, and pickles.
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