Black smoke billows from the front of the bus, casting a somber atmosphere over my already challenging journey from Tirana to Sarandë. The lack of air-conditioning only amplifies the discomfort, with the occasional relief provided by a passenger fanning themselves with a folded map. As the bus continues to groan along the road, it becomes uncertain whether the engine has exploded. This situation is far from ideal, as it highlights the all too common reality of traveling in Albania.
In Albania, buses and car rentals are the primary modes of transportation. Incidents like these are a regular occurrence, leaving visitors at the mercy of unpredictable situations. With only Tirana and Kukës accessible by international flights, the mid and south regions of Albania remain relatively inaccessible unless traveling by bus or car. However, there are signs of change in Albanian transportation, and not everyone is pleased.
The upcoming opening of Vlora international airport in April 2024 and Ryanair’s announcement of 17 new routes to Tirana, including flights from Stansted and Manchester, herald a shift in the transportation landscape. These developments will be welcomed by the tourism sector, as previously the most budget-friendly way to reach Tirana was via bus from Montenegro. Furthermore, Vlora airport will allow tourists to fly directly to Albania’s beautiful coastline on the Adriatic Sea, potentially boosting development and revenue from tourism. However, questions regarding sustainability abound.
Taulant Bino, representing the Albanian Ornithological Society, is one of two national NGOs involved in a lawsuit against the Albanian authorities over the construction of the airport. Their aim is to protect areas of ecological importance and they have noticed a recurring pattern of exploitation within state-owned protected regions, particularly along the coasts. Bino vehemently argues against the construction of Vlora airport, highlighting its encroachment on the Narta lagoon, a renowned bird habitat housing thousands of flamingos. The allegations raised by the NGOs also question the validity of the airport’s construction permit.
Bino states, “As an NGO, we are not against airports in general. However, Vlora airport makes no sense from different perspectives. It is situated within a protected area, a wetland of crucial importance and an important bird area.” He further adds, “Moreover, it is located in close proximity to the existing Tirana airport, which makes the decision even more perplexing. Alternative proposals should be considered.”
Annette Spangenberg, head of conservation at Euronatur, shares Bino’s concerns and wonders why a fast-train option from the existing Tirana airport was not pursued, particularly since Vlora and Tirana airports are a mere two-hour car ride apart. She acknowledges the current trend of constructing beachfront hotel resorts and its potential allure for profit. However, she highlights the risk that the airport may contribute to an unsustainable development bubble that fails to attract tourists to inland destinations.
While the benefits of the airport are apparent, the conversation shifts towards considering the potential costs. There is a genuine fear that while tourism may experience exponential growth, it may come at the expense of long-term sustainability and the preservation of inland destinations. Mirela Kumbaro, Albania’s minister of tourism and environment, initially promised a focus on high-end eco-tourism, deviating from the traditional package beach holidays. However, the current plans appear to be heading in a different direction.
For visitors seeking to make a positive impact on the country, Spangenberg suggests exploring small-scale, local tourism offerings. She emphasizes the importance of remaining curious and open-minded while traveling. For those who have the luxury of time, taking the ferry or opting for bus travel remains viable options. Similarly, Bino advises against patronizing large, sprawling developments that have been constructed in protected areas, as they can have a disastrous impact on nature and lack longevity as tourist destinations despite initial popularity.
It is crucial to consider the long-term effects of these developments, as they have the potential to shape the future of Albania’s tourism industry and its ecological landscape.
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