Martini Asti Spumante, Piedmont, Italy (starting from £8.50, available at Asda, Morrisons, Waitrose, and Tesco)
I am not an absolute fanatic when it comes to seasonal eating. I have too many cravings for fresh fruits and vegetables during the mid-winter to fully commit to it. However, I firmly believe that strawberries are truly worth savoring in Britain only during their traditional season. Right now, we are in the peak of strawberry season, a time of abundant and fragrant succulence when I could happily consume them at every meal. This simple pleasure doesn’t necessarily require any accompaniments on the plate or in a bowl—even cream and sugar can detract from the strawberries’ perfect ripeness. However, it pairs quite well with something in a glass. There’s an idea circulating, inspired by Wimbledon, that champagne is the ideal choice. But I find that it lacks the sweetness I desire and leaves a mouthful of acidity. Instead, I recommend the sweet, delicately floral, sherbet-like, and grapey foaminess of Moscato wines from Asti, particularly the widely available Martini Spumante.
Franck Bonville Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, France NV (£40.95, available at Lea & Sandeman) If you prefer a slightly less effervescent but still gently foaming beverage with the enchanting aroma of an early summer meadow, you can also consider Moscato d’Asti. Specifically, Alasia Moscato d’Asti (£8.50, available at ndjohn.co.uk). It has even lower alcohol content (5% ABV compared to 7.5% ABV for the spumante), making it all the more refreshing in hot weather. If you insist on champagne with strawberries, opt for a demi-sec, the sweetest style. One excellent option is the Pol Roger Rich NV (£44.99, available at houseofmalt.co.uk). However, in my opinion, it may be better to save your champagne budget for a pairing that rivals any wine-food combination: a dry or drier style (brut, extra brut, zero dosage in descending order of sweetness) of blanc de blancs (100% chardonnay) with fish and chips. I recently discovered and fell in love with the incredibly elegant and gracefully structured Franck Bonville Blanc de Blancs from a grower house.
Segura Viudas Cava Brut, Spain 2021 (£12, available at Tesco) The reason why blanc de blancs pairs so beautifully with fish ‘n’ chips is because it manages to achieve both aspects of a successful wine and food pairing: similarity and contrast. There is a shared lightness and fried flour flavor between the batter and the champagne, but the champagne’s lively acidity also cuts through the grease and provides a refreshing citrus contrast to the fish. Of course, these days you can enjoy this quintessentially British dish with a British blanc de blancs. The exquisite and delicately structured Gusbourne Estate Blanc de Blancs 2018 (£65, available at gusbourne.co.uk) from Kent is a perfect choice for a special treat. However, sparkling wines of all kinds, often enjoyed as aperitifs, are actually versatile and pair well with a wide variety of foods. Another excellent match with similar qualities is fennel braised in white wine and olive oil accompanied by the subtly Mediterranean herbaceousness and tang of a good cava, such as Segura Viudas.
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