The sprawling building in northern Spain houses a sterile boardroom, with a lengthy white table at its center. However, the corporate chatter filling the room is overshadowed by what is happening one floor below. In a tank the size of a budget hotel room, approximately 50 adult male octopuses – the fifth generation bred in the company’s office and research center – swim through shallow waters. Some interact with each other, while others explore the corners of the tank. A soft light illuminates the scene as researchers prepare the groundwork for the world’s first commercial octopus farm.
Roberto Romero Pérez, a marine biologist overseeing aquaculture at Grupo Nueva Pescanova, describes the project as a global milestone from a scientific standpoint. However, he acknowledges that the public reception has been more hostile than expected. The company’s vision is to create a farm that can eventually produce up to 3,000 tons of octopus meat annually, requiring the slaughter of around 1 million Octopus vulgaris. Since the farm was announced in 2021, it has become an international point of contention. Protests have arisen in cities like Mumbai and Mexico City, joined by over 100 academics who argue that farming intelligent and solitary animals like octopuses is unethical and environmentally unsustainable. Some policymakers are considering bans on octopus farming, with an online petition garnering nearly 1 million signatures.
The debate centers around whether octopuses should be subjected to the same issues seen in factory farming. Jennifer Jacquet, a visiting professor of environmental science and policy, explains that the discussion is not about whether octopus should be consumed, but rather whether mass production is necessary for a luxury good. The demand for octopus meat has grown as it became popular in sushi, poke, and tapas. Historically, this demand has been met by wild stocks. Between 1950 and 2015, wild octopus catches increased over tenfold to an estimated 400,000 tons. Supporters of octopus farming argue that it can alleviate pressure on wild stocks, but Jacquet states that there is little evidence to support this claim. A study analyzing four decades of data found that increased aquaculture did not reduce wild fish catches. Instead, aquaculture contributed to higher seafood demand.
The desire to farm octopuses has coincided with a growing interest in octopus research, providing insights into their complex behavior. Octopuses are known for their curiosity, ability to escape, and their capacity to change their skin’s color and texture to blend in with their surroundings. A recent report from the London School of Economics found strong evidence of sentience in octopods, suggesting they can experience pain and distress. Researchers observed injured octopuses protecting wounds and seeking pain relief when given the opportunity.
Currently, there are no EU regulations protecting farmed octopuses, as animal welfare legislation does not extend to invertebrates. Alex Schnell, a comparative psychologist, argues that farming sentient animals requires specific practices to ensure their welfare. Schnell and her research team concluded that high-welfare octopus farming is currently impossible due to the delicate nature of octopuses and their need for mental stimulation. Octopuses can become aggressive or territorial when housed together, and stress from overcrowding or non-ideal living conditions can lead to self-cannibalism.
Grupo Nueva Pescanova’s research facility in Galicia houses nine tanks filled with Octopus vulgaris. Researchers study the effects of various conditions on the octopuses, such as light levels and nutrition. The company is keen to demonstrate that their octopuses are thriving in their current conditions, with no territorial behavior or cannibalism. However, critics doubt that these conditions can be replicated in commercial farming.
The project is currently in an experimentation phase as researchers gather data to inform the future farm’s plans. Grupo Nueva Pescanova envisions a facility with around 1,000 tanks tailored to each life phase of the octopuses. The goal is to create optimal conditions for the animals’ well-being and growth. The exact density of octopuses per tank is still being determined, with different light requirements for different ages. The facility is planned for Las Palmas port in Gran Canaria, with an estimated cost of €65 million.
Overall, the debate surrounding octopus farming is complex and contentious. Critics raise concerns about the ethics and sustainability of mass-producing such intelligent and solitary animals. Proponents argue that farming can meet the growing demand for octopus meat and relieve pressure on wild stocks. The future of octopus farming remains uncertain as policymakers, scientists, and activists continue to voice their opinions on this controversial endeavor.
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