The Pont Neuf, the ancient bridge in Paris, played host to a groundbreaking event on Tuesday evening: Pharrell Williams’s inaugural collection for luxury brand Louis Vuitton menswear. Unsurprisingly, given his status as a musician, producer, and entrepreneur with over 14 million Instagram followers, the audience was filled with A-list celebrities. Among the guests were Jay-Z and Beyoncé, Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, Zendaya, Lewis Hamilton, Kelly Rowland, Tyler, the Creator, and Kim Kardashian. Some stayed after the show for Jay-Z’s performance, where Williams joined him on stage for their 2003 song “Frontin’.”
Williams was appointed as the creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear in February, a surprising choice after British designers Grace Wales Bonner and Martine Rose had been favored for the role. However, Tuesday’s show provided an explanation for Williams’s selection. It was not merely a fashion show, but a celebrity showcase, concert, and party all rolled into one, with fashion being an added bonus.
The catwalk presentation featured a combination of maximalist designs adorned with LV logos, including a fuzzy, full-length coat and a football-style shirt with the Louis Vuitton crest. Smart tailoring and numerous bags were also showcased. One standout moment was a Jeep convertible driving down the runway with luggage stacked inside – a first in the fashion industry. The phrase “LV is for Lovers” paid homage to Williams’s home state of Virginia and its tagline “Virginia is for lovers.” Williams, wearing a pixelated camouflage suit matching his four children’s outfits in the front row, took a bow at the end.
Williams’s appointment as the creative director has sparked discussions due to his lack of formal training as a designer. However, as Chris Black, co-host of the style and pop culture podcast How Long Gone, points out, Williams possesses cultural capital. In today’s modern age, the role of a creative director is more about vibe and vision. Black states, “I hate to say it, but I think that the product is almost the least important, or it’s at least the third or fourth most important [thing].”
Crucially, Williams has a wealth of experience collaborating with fashion brands. He has been working with Adidas since 2014, launched his own brand Billionaire Boys Club in 2005, and introduced a skincare brand called Humanrace in 2020. He previously collaborated with Louis Vuitton in 2008 on a highly successful pair of sunglasses called Millionaires, alongside then-creative director Marc Jacobs.
Williams’s appointment follows the unfortunate passing of the previous creative director in 2021. Virgil Abloh, a friend of Williams, introduced a new perspective on luxury by drawing inspiration from pop culture, hip-hop, and anti-racist activism. Williams has expressed his intention to continue building on Abloh’s work by bringing Black experiences to a fashion house rooted in a predominantly white elite tradition. The release of the first ad campaign, featuring a pregnant Rihanna, was a part of that objective.
The attendance of Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, and other prominent Black American figures at Williams’s debut show showcased his influence and the power of Black culture on a global stage. In the New York Times, Jon Caramanica posited that Williams’s presence at Louis Vuitton could be seen as a significant acknowledgement of the strength of Black cultural capital worldwide.
“This was not just a catwalk show,” says Osman Ahmed, fashion features director at i-D magazine. “It was the entire center of Paris shutting down for a fashion show. It was Beyoncé in the midst of a world tour making an appearance, and Rihanna and A$AP Rocky showing up halfway through. It’s surreal because it highlights the immense power involved – cultural, financial, fashion, and artistic power. We will undoubtedly witness the aftershocks of this moment in the industry for years to come.”
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