Joe Kennedy: Harvest Elderberries in the Sunshine

The arrival of flowers in summer signifies the changing seasons, with the subsequent berries marking the end of the season. These strange and mythical bushes have thrived due to a combination of rain and sunshine, producing delightful clusters of fragrant blooms.

However, the traditional practices of flower gathering and elderberry picking have declined in recent years. The person collecting the flowers revealed that she has no desire to create a sparkling wine from them.

Instead, elderflower cordial has become a common sight on supermarket shelves. A Leicestershire-based company in the Vale of Belvoir sold an impressive 10 million bottles of this delightful beverage last year.

To create the best elderflower cordial, it’s crucial to pick the flowers on a sunny day when they are dry. The yellow pollen found in the blossoms adds essential flavor to the cordial, but rain can wash it away. Additionally, avoid picking flowers with even the slightest hint of brown, as they will ruin the final product with an unpleasant aroma. Ensure the flowers are dry and free from insects before gathering them.

Renowned naturalist Richard Mabey states that elderflowers have more culinary uses than any other type of hedge blossom. There are countless recipes available, including those found in Mrs. Grieve’s notable book, A Modern Herbal (1935), which dedicates 11 pages to wines, cordials, soft drinks, and jams made with elderflowers.

Mabey personally enjoys eating elderflowers straight from the bush, preferably fried in a batter. According to him, they have a cool and frothy texture. For a marvelous taste experience, I prefer trying a puree or preserve with gooseberries and cream.

This year, gooseberries ripened early, making it the perfect time to create a preserve using one pound of gooseberries and four elderflower heads.

Begin by placing the berries in a pan with a pint of water and simmer for half an hour, until they turn into a pulp. Then, add approximately 500 grams of sugar, stir, and bring to a boil.

Next, add the elderflowers in a muslin bag and boil rapidly until the mixture is about to set. Remove the bag and transfer the preserve to jars.

The resulting flavor is like that of Muscat grapes and beautifully enhances the gooseberry jam. For sparkling wine recipes, it’s best to seek advice elsewhere.

Foraging in the countryside, once exclusive to niche magazine readers, has now become a popular activity for many.

However, it’s crucial to exercise great caution when handling and gathering potentially poisonous plants, such as hemlock, hemlock water-dropwort, hellebores, and fool’s parsley.

While there are many excellent field guides available to help identify these plants, some may not adequately emphasize the dangers of accidental ingestion.

Early editions of Mabey’s book, Food for Free, included a useful list of poisonous plants.

However, the most comprehensive and visually appealing guide to foraging can be found in The Wild Plants of Ireland by Tom Curtis and Paul Whelan. This book, endorsed by Darina Allen and published with the Department of Agriculture’s approval by Orla Kelly, should be a staple in every forager’s kitchen and a delightful read for countryside enthusiasts.

One consideration for future editions of this excellent guide is to adjust the format, as it is currently too wide for convenient pocket-sized use.

Furthermore, including a distinct, well-illustrated section on

Reference

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