Bringing the Daniel Roth Watch Brand Back to Life

A new and exciting venture is unfolding at Louis Vuitton’s watch factory, La Fabrique du Temps, located in Meyrin, Switzerland. The focus of this endeavor is to revive the independent watch brand, Daniel Roth. Leading this initiative are Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, who founded the workshop in 2007 and later sold it to LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton’s parent company, in 2011.

Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini are determined to both honor Daniel Roth’s creations and push the brand forward. In a joint interview, they expressed their desire to forge their own path and create entirely new movements. Their first watch, the Souscription Tourbillon, is scheduled for release in early 2024. This timepiece is an updated version of Daniel Roth’s original 1989 watch and features a distinctive double ellipse case with a hand-guilloché clous-de-Paris dial and a tourbillon at six o’clock. The initial collection of 20 pieces, priced at 140,000 francs ($155,000) per unit, sold out within weeks.

Daniel Roth, now 77, began his career at Breguet in the 1970s, where he created the brand’s first tourbillon wristwatch. In 1988, he established his own independent brand and became known for his innovative double ellipse case design. His watches gained recognition in the industry, and he created various models under his own name before selling the brand to The Hour Glass and later to Bulgari. The brand eventually became part of LVMH’s portfolio.

At the La Fabrique du Temps workshop, Navas and Barbasini shared their design process for the new Daniel Roth watches. They showcased pencil drawings and a 3D model, demonstrating the evolution of the case design. In the background, skilled watchmakers diligently worked on movements and components. The workshop aims to produce a few hundred Daniel Roth timepieces per year, with a thinner case design and curved lugs for enhanced comfort.

The new Souscription Tourbillon introduces advanced technology. While Daniel Roth used adapted and meticulously decorated base movements for his watches, the new DR001 movement is entirely developed from scratch and follows the shape of the case. Navas highlighted the precision and accuracy achieved with modern computer-guided machinery, leading to a more precise balance wheel than that used by Daniel Roth. The watchmakers emphasize finding the right balance between accuracy and aesthetics.

Every technical detail matters in the creation of the Souscription Tourbillon. The click, a spring-loaded crossbar that generates a winding noise, plays a crucial role in the watch’s function and connection to the wearer. Navas explained the significance of sound in the winding process, which evokes an emotional connection between the user and the timepiece. Additionally, the watchmakers take pride in intricately decorating even the unseen parts of the watch, ensuring that every aspect reflects impeccable quality.

Although Daniel Roth is now presented as an independent brand, some may question its independence due to its affiliation with LVMH, a global luxury conglomerate. Navas emphasized that their approach remains the same as when they were independent, even with the support of the group. Intrapreneurship expert Taina Tukiainen believes that Daniel Roth can still be seen as independent for its target customers, as LVMH’s strategy focuses on nurturing unique brands within their portfolio.

Jean Daniel Nicolas, a combination of Mr. Roth’s name, his wife’s, and his son’s, is the label under which he continues to create watches in his small workshop in Vallée de Joux. Mr. Roth expressed his great joy and honor to see his original brand revived by LVMH. He had been concerned about the brand falling into the wrong hands and tarnishing his name, so he is relieved to see it thrive once again. Mr. Roth is grateful to collaborate with Navas and Barbasini, whom he considers true friends, and he appreciates their impeccable watchmaking skills. For Mr. Roth, this collaboration feels like a resurrection after a difficult period.

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