This is the epitome of theatrical cooking over fire.

Somerset is the destination for a unique culinary experience unlike any other. Tom Bray and Ana Ortiz, the masterminds behind Fire Made (formerly Country Fire Kitchen), have made a name for themselves by designing South American-style fire cooking gear for renowned chefs like Marcus Wareing, Gordon Ramsay, and Tomos Parry. Not only do they create top-notch equipment, but they also host workshops and events, cater to private clients such as David Beckham and Sam Taylor-Johnson, and know how to put on a show, even with their relatively modest setup in their backyard.

Their signature creation, the “Portico” grill, could be likened to a cross between an animal cage and a medieval torture device. Made from metal rods, hanging chains, detachable grills, and retractable legs, this grill is not only visually striking but also highly functional. It boasts different sections that allow for cooking at varying levels of direct and indirect heat. The versatility and craftsmanship of the Fire Made Portico grill are unparalleled.

Today, the air is filled with the sizzling of various ingredients. A succulent wedge of sirloin, seasoned with salt, is currently hissing on a grill suspended half a foot above the flaming logs. Soon, it will be shifted to a higher rack to cook more slowly after being adequately smoked. On the other hand, the lamb rump, marinated in a rich blend of Ecuadorian flavors including achiote paste, herbs, garlic, and chili, remains in its position and has taken on a deep red hue. On the grill, lamb chops and ox-heart skewers inspired by Peruvian street food, known as anticuchos, quickly cook on a grid set above the embers. To round off the feast, tomatoes and chilies are cooked on hot coals and then crushed in a pestle and mortar to create aji, a delectable chili sauce.

During a leisurely lunch, which includes sides such as potatoes with queso fresco sauce and a tangy lime-pickled radish, onion, and tomato salad, Bray and Ortiz engage in a friendly debate about their grilling skills as a married couple. Both graciously nominate each other as the more skilled griller while playfully nit-picking on their techniques. Bray takes charge of overseeing the larger cuts that require hours of cooking, relishing in the task while sipping on a beer. Ortiz, on the other hand, handles the smaller cuts, marinades, and sauces, admitting that her impatience is her driving force. However, her favorite way to utilize fire in cooking is not grilling, but creating soups and stews like fritada, a braised-pork dish from Ecuador, reminiscent of the meals her grandfather used to prepare in large pots.

Ortiz’s childhood memories of fire cooking center around her grandfather, Papi Polo, who would rear and slaughter various animals, resulting in elaborate nose-to-tail meals cooked over fire. These gatherings would feed the entire family, comprising eight daughters, two sons, and twenty grandchildren. Bray developed his passion for fire cooking through his interactions with Ortiz’s family. The camaraderie and relaxed atmosphere, as everyone gathered to indulge in buckets of meat, fish, and vegetables, instantly captivated him.

The Fire Made business was born unexpectedly when Bray, who was working for the local government at the time, commissioned a blacksmith to create an asado cross for his personal use. The allure of the whole side of beef cooked on a cross was too irresistible not to share. After sharing pictures on Twitter, inquiries from interested individuals poured in. This led Bray to commission more crosses to sell and also create grills. Suddenly, people were showing up at his door to collect these products, a situation he humorously compares to being the “Del Boy of South American barbecue equipment.”

In 2016, a showcase at London’s Meatopia food festival propelled Fire Made into the spotlight, drawing attention from various players in the industry. Today, they design and ship equipment to chefs worldwide, catering to the growing trend of grilling and smoking in restaurants, whether it be fine dining establishments or street food vendors. Furthermore, their consumer range has expanded to include the smaller “Portico Home” grill, along with accessories like chicken baskets and a flambadou for heating and dripping fat and butter. They have even launched a portable kit for beachside cooking. However, the asado cross remains a customer favorite, as it promises to be a mesmerizing spectacle for meat enthusiasts and barbecue aficionados alike. Fire Made is indeed the pioneer of dining with a captivating show.

Visit their website firemade.co.uk or connect with them on Twitter @ajesh34.

Reference

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