In sunny San Diego, an individual named Max Kingery has garnered attention for his unusual passion for eradicating a certain type of flower. However, this clothing designer, who utilizes these plants in his fashion lines, is not offended by accusations of destroying the lush “superbloom” in California. Instead, he views it as an opportunity to draw attention to the destructive nature of wild black mustard, which has spread throughout the state following an unusually wet winter.
Wild black mustard is one of many wildflowers that have flourished in California this spring. As the weather warms, it begins to wither, becoming highly flammable and contributing to the state’s wildfire problem. The plant’s tall stalks act as ladders, allowing the flames to climb and spread. Not only does mustard pose a fire hazard, but it also smothers native plants and transforms the landscape. Its leaves and roots inhibit the growth of other species, creating a dense, rapidly spreading monoculture. Among the various types of wild mustards in California, black mustard, or Brassica nigra, is particularly widespread.
The invasion of wild mustard has caught the attention of land management officials, as well as artists, designers, and chefs who have taken up the challenge of using the plant in innovative ways. One such artist, Erin Berkowitz, harvests the flowers to create clothing dyes. Meanwhile, chefs craft pesto from the mustard greens and incorporate the flowers into dressings. This abundant and versatile resource has captivated the creative community, inspiring them to explore its potential.
Max Kingery, known for his brand “Pervasive Bloom,” has embraced the use of wild mustard in his clothing line. Sweatshirts, pants, and tank tops dyed naturally with mustard have become prominent features of his collection. His website showcases models proudly wearing mustard-dyed clothing while surrounded by cleared land. The Olderbrother store in Los Angeles exhibits a striking panel made from the plant’s stalks, leaves, and flowers, woven together by designer Cecilia Bordarampe.
To obtain the desired hues, Kingery’s team has collected over 450 pounds of mustard for dye production. They continue to remove over 100 pounds per week from public lands in Los Angeles. Despite these efforts, it proves to be a never-ending battle against the relentless growth of the plant.
Wild black mustard, a species introduced to California from Eurasia in the 1700s, experienced a notable surge this year due to record rainfall and previous wildfires that created ideal conditions for its proliferation. Although state and local agencies attempt to manage mustard on designated lands, it has expanded beyond their reach. During its peak bloom, vibrant yellow spreads across freeways, hillsides, and even sidewalk cracks.
Max Kingery acknowledges the physical challenges of his work but finds solace in witnessing native plants emerge from areas once overrun by mustard. To achieve the desired color palette, a significant quantity of mustard is required. This approach not only minimizes unnecessary plant removal but also embraces the concept of utilizing resources that thrive in unexpected spaces, like sidewalk cracks.
Joining the effort to repurpose invasive species, artist Erin Berkowitz of Berbo Studio plays a crucial role in crafting dyes for Kingery’s clothing line. Together with a chef, she offers informative classes on creative ways to utilize these plants.
In conclusion, the initiative to combat the invasion of wild mustard has attracted a growing group of artists, designers, and chefs in California. Their aim is to raise awareness and find innovative solutions, from clothing dyes to culinary delights. While challenging, the persistence and creativity of individuals like Max Kingery and Erin Berkowitz demonstrate the potential for transforming what was once viewed as a nuisance into a valuable resource.
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