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As I clumsily handled my chopsticks, I could feel the intense gaze of the four executives surrounding me. Seated at the head of the table in a room nestled between a commercial kitchen and a laboratory, I had just finished a tour of the Finless Foods facility in San Francisco – and this was the culmination.
Before me lay four exquisitely presented pieces of high-quality nigiri, accompanied by all the customary extras. Two were crafted from wild-caught bluefin tuna, while the other two were unreleased prototypes grown from cell cultures in their lab. I was one of the few individuals outside of the company given the opportunity to sample the results of years of research, experimentation, and investment – all aimed at creating a sustainable future for seafood.
With its prototype nearing completion and preparations underway for submission to the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), Finless is well-positioned to obtain regulatory approval by 2024. Their fish is created through a mixture of lab-grown cells and a proprietary blend of plant-based materials, carefully curated to replicate the appearance, texture, aroma, taste, and nutritional profile of their counterparts caught in the sea. The company is also on track to become the first to offer cell-cultured bluefin tuna to American consumers.
Despite years of conservation-focused messaging, the demand for this delectable delicacy continues to rise. Chef Mark Okuda referred to it as “essential to sushi” in an LA Times article discussing the downsides of consuming bluefin tuna. By 2016, the Pacific bluefin tuna population had dwindled to a mere 2.6% of its original size. Although recent years have witnessed a rebound in bluefin stocks worldwide, the species remains endangered due to overfishing.
“We are reaching carrying capacity,” remarked Shannon Cosentino-Roush, Chief Strategy Officer at Finless, highlighting the challenges faced by this fish and the surrounding ecosystems. She added, “There’s no sign of demand decreasing.”
Entering the lab where the hum of machinery filled the air, Chief Innovation Officer and co-founder Brian Wyrwas discussed the difficulties of making the cells behave as desired and developing cost-effective nutrient mixes. By feeding the cells a specialized nutrient blend, the team has not only successfully fostered their growth and development, but also prompted the transition into muscle and fat. The company envisions a future where their product consists entirely of cultured cells. However, for now, their focus remains on navigating the year-long regulatory process and bringing their prototype to plates across the United States – and subsequently the rest of the world.
Upside Foods, another cultivated meat company, achieved a significant milestone last year with the first FDA approval for its lab-grown chicken, a feat celebrated throughout the industry. However, several challenges persist. Even with regulatory approval, convincing an apprehensive public is essential. Questions arise regarding the scalability of lab-grown foods and whether they can serve as both a sustainable and affordable alternative to conventional meat consumption. Moreover, early data suggests that the cultivated meat industry’s promise of an environmentally-friendly product may not be fully realized. A recent analysis revealed that the environmental impact of cultivated beef products could surpass that of traditional beef if produced on a larger scale.
Nevertheless, for Finless, the goal has always been to offer consumers a way to enjoy fish without harming actual fish, and the company is dedicated to achieving this sustainably. As noted by founder Mike Selden, “I hope people don’t dismiss us based on the sins of others. We are making a real impact, and there are genuine individuals here who care about making a positive difference if given the opportunity.”
The ultimate test, of course, lies in the taste.
With my cell-cultured nigiri carefully secured between my chopsticks, I bypassed the soy sauce and indulged in the experience. The texture wasn’t an exact replica, but the flavor left an impressive impression on my admittedly unsophisticated palate. Most importantly, I was enthralled by the excitement of tasting the future and hopeful that one day, guilt-free food will become a reality.
While there are still unanswered questions, as Brandon Chen, Finless CTO, stated, “This revolution is happening sooner than anticipated. The future is now.”
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