On a warm spring Saturday, the Cours Saleya in Nice is bustling with activity. Tucked away just a short distance from the sea, this famous flower market is a hub of vibrant energy. Restaurants and cafés are the only businesses that seem to be open in town, with every table beneath the canopies and parasols filled with people enjoying their meals. Popular eateries have lines forming outside, and families can be seen sitting on benches, indulging in paper-wrapped socca and gelati. The atmosphere is reminiscent of high summer, with a vivid blue sky, and the palazzos and mansions showcasing beautiful shades of yellow and terracotta.
It has been years since I last visited Nice, and the city has certainly undergone some changes in the interim. The grand squares have been repaved, facades have been repainted, and a new tram system has been implemented to alleviate traffic congestion. Palm trees sway gently in the breeze, and the Promenade des Anglais is filled with neatly arranged deckchairs, occupied by people soaking up the sun. After the dreary weather back home, stepping into Nice feels like entering a picture-perfect world; a vibrant symphony of colors and life.
Despite its transformation, Nice seems to have faded from the spotlight in recent years. Other hip and trendy destinations in Eastern Europe and Spain have taken its place as the go-to weekend getaways. However, the Victorians who first made the city famous in the mid-19th century were onto something. Nice is easily accessible, just a train ride away from Paris or Lille. It offers a more affordable and bohemian atmosphere compared to its grander neighbor, Cannes.
The best way to experience Nice is by exploring on foot. Starting from the Place Masséna, one of the city’s largest squares, I make my way along the Promenade des Anglais towards the charming maze of streets in the Old Town. I stroll through the Cours Saleya flower market, admiring the vibrant bougainvillea and the sweet scent of jasmine. The Old Town is filled with boutiques, galleries, and gelaterias, offering a mix of tourist shops and hidden gems. I come across Trésors Publics, which boasts a collection of ceramics, stationery, cosmetics, and perfume, all made by local artisans. I also visit Nicolas Alziari to purchase olive oil and herb mixes, a staple since the store’s opening in 1932. The Fromagerie Métin entices me with its selection of cheeses, ranging from nutty mountain cheeses to blue varieties. Feeling hungry, I stop at Lou Pilha Leva for socca and a refreshing drink, enjoying my meal at an outdoor bench.
Apart from food, art is another passion that captivates Nice. The city has attracted some of the greatest painters of the era, including Picasso, Chagall, and Matisse, drawn by the unique light and picturesque landscapes. Art lovers could easily spend a weekend exploring the numerous galleries and museums, but the Musée Matisse is a must-visit. It houses a collection of 130 works from Matisse’s personal collection, providing insights into the life, travels, and evolving techniques of this beloved French artist.
Despite the abundance of cultural attractions, Nice is a city that thrives outdoors. On my second day, I climb the winding staircase at the eastern end of the Promenade des Anglais, entering the leafy Jardins du Colline. From here, I am treated to stunning views of the sea on one side and the mountains of Provence on the other. The park is a haven for families, couples, and elderly locals seeking the shade of trees or basking in the warm sun.
This is what makes Nice truly special – the fact that its glamour and beauty are appreciated not only by visitors but also by the locals. Despite being a major tourist destination for centuries, the city has managed to maintain its authentic French heart. As my weekend in Nice draws to a close, I indulge in lunch at Restaurant Safari, where I am served a generous plate of Niçoise appetizers, including crispy cod beignet, artichoke salad, and stuffed peppers, all rich with flavor. This meal perfectly embodies the essence of the city – a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, indulgence, and delight.
For those looking to spend the night in Nice, there are accommodations to suit every budget. Happy Culture, a French hotel chain, offers affordable rooms with all the essentials. Hotel Nap, located at the heart of the Old Town, provides easy access to numerous restaurants. The Hotel Windsor, on the other hand, immerses guests in Nice’s artistic vibe, with each room designed by a different artist. For a touch of luxury, the Anantara Plaza is a top choice. Housed in a belle epoque building, it offers stunning views of the Jardins Albert 1er and the sea, as well as a rooftop cocktail bar and restaurant.
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