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Growing up in Baden-Baden and still considering it my home, even though I now live in London, I always find myself returning to visit my mother. A short drive from the airport and you’ll find yourself in the breathtaking Black Forest, surrounded by hills covered in fir and evergreen trees. Baden-Baden, known for its renowned thermal springs, experiences all four seasons. Spring brings stunning apple and cherry blossoms, along with carpets of crocuses that are truly out of this world. Summer showcases beautiful rhododendrons in full bloom, while autumn paints the landscape with vibrant and magical colors. Exotic trees gifted by foreign dignitaries line the Oos River, changing colors throughout the year.
For spa enthusiasts, Baden-Baden offers plenty of accommodation options, but my top recommendation is the elegant Brenners Park-Hotel. This belle époque treasure is nestled in the middle of a private park, boasting its own gardens and terrace. Adjacent to the hotel is Villa Stéphanie, a spa annexe with only 15 rooms, but also a fantastic day spa.
If you’re looking for a unique spa experience, Friedrichsbad is a must-visit. This iconic 19th-century spa, built in Renaissance style, continues to attract visitors with its incredible mix of baths. From dry and wet rooms with varying steam temperatures to warm bubble baths and cold plunge pools, Friedrichsbad offers a truly rejuvenating experience in a beautiful tiled setting. Don’t be surprised, however, as the spa area is all-nude.
Food is a central part of life in Baden-Baden throughout the year. In summer, the fields are filled with delicious white asparagus, while cherry and plum trees provide the fruit for our favorite cakes and jams. The region is home to numerous producers of meats, hams, jams, and sourdough, and you can find them all in one place at Geroldsauer Mühle. Personally, I love their warm potato salads and maultaschen, a German version of savory ravioli. When it comes to dining out, Filios is one of the best restaurants in town, serving high-end, modern Greek cuisine with slow-cooked lamb as their specialty. For a more casual experience, visit Maltes Hidden Kitchen, a coffee shop during the day that transforms into a Michelin-starred restaurant at night. In the old town, you’ll find Baldreit, a local institution serving typical Badisch cuisine, and Capri, a coffee shop and ice cream parlor that has been a beloved spot since 1966.
Baden-Baden offers a variety of small private museums, including the Richard Meier-designed Frieder Burda. The museum showcases works by renowned artists such as Gerhard Richter, Anselm Kiefer, and Willem de Kooning, with a focus on digital art and AI. Just next door is the Kunsthalle, where I first discovered the work of Donald Judd in the 1980s, sparking my passion for art and history.
When it comes to shopping, Baden-Baden has plenty to offer. Indulge in chocolates and cakes from famous konditorei like Café König, or visit the exquisite Christmas market, considered one of the most stunning in Germany. You’ll also find niche boutiques specializing in small luxury items, such as Olivier Maugé for beautiful millinery. Maugé creates a limited collection of occasion hats each year, perfect for events like the local horse races or a stylish straw hat for the beach. For book lovers, Strasse Books is a family-run bookshop brimming with knowledge.
Outdoor activities, especially hiking, are a major highlight of Baden-Baden. The Panorama Trail, divided into sections ranging from nine to 15km each, offers breathtaking views of lakes, waterfalls, and architectural wonders. Recently voted “Germany’s most beautiful hike,” the trail takes you through stunning landscapes, including a walk up to the Stourdza Chapel surrounded by giant redwoods and sequoias.
As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Baden-Baden is well-preserved and protected. Surrounded by thick forests, the town has maintained its unique identity over the years. You can still enjoy a coffee at Capri and experience the true essence of family-run hotels and restaurants that have stood the test of time. The only notable change is the famous Casino Baden-Baden, which now allows locals to enjoy roulette like everyone else.
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