If you’ve been closely monitoring the soaring temperatures in Spain, reaching the high 30Cs, you might assume that the entire country is hot and arid. However, this assumption doesn’t hold true for Rias Baixas on the Galician coast. This region, known as “green Spain,” is characterized by its cool and often rainy climate. It is also home to the green albariño grape, a popular choice on many wine lists today. Albariño from Rias Baixas has a pure, mineral, and saline taste, perfectly reflecting its proximity to the sea. It has become the white wine of choice to accompany seafood.
Due to low yields and high demand, prices for albariño have risen considerably. Even supermarket own-label options are not cheap, unless they are on promotion. For example, Morrisons The Best Albarino currently sells for £12, which is still more affordable than chablis, making it a useful comparison for those unfamiliar with albariño.
Cheaper albariños tend to have a fruitier taste, resembling sauvignon blanc. If that’s the style you’re seeking, you might as well opt for sauvignon blanc. However, I must mention that today’s pick, the Castro Martin, is a delightful exception. Albariño is typically sold young and unoaked, although it ages impressively. White wine-producing regions emphasize this to encourage investment in their top cuvées. Nevertheless, I prefer albariño within the first two or three years, especially when paired with shellfish.
There are several sub-regions within Rias Baixas, including Val do Salnés, O Rosal, and Condado do Tea. Each sub-region has its distinct characteristics. However, unless you’re an albariño enthusiast, it’s more practical to focus on the producer. Personally, I have a strong affinity for albariños from Pazo Señorans. They also produce the Wine Society’s reasonably priced own-label Exhibition Albariño (£14.95, 13%). Another noteworthy producer is Terras Gauda, known for their exceptional caino-based blend featured in this week’s selection.
Albariño is also making its mark in other regions. Laurent Miquel, an enterprising Languedoc producer, offers a commendable albariño. Furthermore, albariño has become Uruguay’s signature white wine, although its prices there are comparable to those in Rias Baixas. Bodega Bouza produces a delicious albariño that can be purchased for £26.95 at Jeroboams. There is also a growing number of albariño plantings in Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. However, the ones I’ve sampled thus far do not possess the alluring salinity found in Rias Baixas albariños.
Five albariños to sip with seafood
Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Albariño 2021 £10.50, 12%. This Rias Baixas wine is properly crisp and dry, making it the finest among the own-label options I’ve tried, possibly due to its additional time in bottle.
Laurent Miquel Lagrasse Albariño 2022 £11.50 Sainsbury’s, £11.99 Waitrose Cellar, 12.5%. This albariño is bright, zesty, and citrussy. It possesses more strength compared to top Rias Baixas albariños, making it an ideal pairing for dishes with coriander, lime, and chili.
A20 Albariño 2020 £79.74 (£13.29 a bottle) a case of six allaboutwine.com, 13%. This atypical yet delightful albariño exhibits an exotic, almost tropical-fruited style. It exudes notes of papaya with a touch of peach.
Terras Gauda La Mar 2021 £24 gourmethunters.com, £29.30 Les Caves de Pyrène, 12.5%. In this particular albariño, it serves as a sidekick to the more unusual caino. It boasts intense sharpness and salinity, making it an exhilarating wine to enjoy with shellfish.
Mar de Frades Brut £28.75 (or £25.88 if you buy any 12 bottles) Wine Republic, £29.50 (or £26.55 if you buy any 12) Great Wine Co, 12%. This sparkling albariño is a rarity, offering a light and creamy texture with a hint of white peach. It serves as an excellent alternative for those who find champagne too toasty. To add to its appeal, when chilled to the perfect temperature, a majestic ship in full sail magically appears on the bottle.
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