Ireland fans who are heading to Nantes, France for the Rugby World Cup are in for a delightful experience. As I strolled through a green space in Nantes, I couldn’t help but notice a sprinkler providing much-needed hydration to the parched earth. It was a scorching 26C in mid-April, and I was in desperate need of a pit stop. Luckily, there was a nearby kiosk that offered chilled bottles of water and serviettes to wipe away our sweat.
While I paused to hydrate, my phone pinged, notifying me that I had already taken 20,000 steps. Back home, my daily goal is only half of that. Clearly, Nantes offers plenty of opportunities for exploration and activity.
Nantes, being the host city for four Rugby World Cup games later this year, is buzzing with anticipation. The vibrant streets are adorned with rugby-themed street art, leaving no doubt that a sporting spectacle is about to take place.
There is a strong hope that Ireland will perform well in the tournament. On September 16th, thousands of fans dressed in green will gather at Stade de la Beaujoire, the home of FC Nantes, to support Andy Farrell’s team in their Group B game against Tonga. The stadium has a capacity of 35,000 and is conveniently located just seven kilometers from the city center. Buses and trams provide easy access to the stadium, with one-way fares costing €1.70.
The Tonga match kicks off at 9pm, giving supporters plenty of time to explore the city during the day. For those who aren’t interested in rugby, Nantes offers the Le Voyage a Nantes festival from July 1st to September 3rd. This festival celebrates artists from around the world, with displays and exhibitions spread throughout the city.
One must-visit neighborhood is Bouffay, with its narrow cobblestoned lanes and vibrant square filled with trendy bars and restaurants. While enjoying a drink in this picturesque setting, it’s worth reflecting on the area’s dark history. During the French Revolution, this spot witnessed gruesome executions, as depicted in the painting “Executions of the Sisters.”
Another prominent attraction in Nantes is the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, which served as a residence for French monarchs, a barracks, an arsenal, and a prison throughout its history. Today, it houses the Nantes History Museum, where “Executions of the Sisters” is on display.
Nantes is also known for its stunning Gothic Cathedral of St Pierre and St Paul, which took over four centuries to complete. For those who enjoy shopping, Passage Pommeraye, a 180-year-old arcade, is a must-visit with its exquisite statues and palace-worthy pillars.
To explore the city and its numerous attractions, visitors can purchase a travel pass called Pass Nantes, which offers unlimited travel on buses and trams, as well as access to various tourist attractions, including the Museum of Art.
While Nantes has much to be proud of, it’s important to acknowledge the troubling elements of its history. A visit to the riverside Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery provides a sobering reminder of the city’s past. The underground area of the memorial uses hidden speakers to convey the sounds of port activity from the time when slavery was prevalent.
For a truly unique experience, visitors can’t miss Le Grand Elephant, a mechanical giant that has become a symbol of the city. This 12-meter-high creature can carry up to 50 people for a 30-minute ride. If the queue for the elephant is too long, taking a ride on the carousel provides a fun alternative, with its giant tortoises, goldfish, and seashells offering panoramic views of the city.
Nearby, the Gallery of the Machines features an array of mechanical animals and insects, combining the imaginations of Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci to create a truly one-of-a-kind experience.
If you have the time, I highly recommend taking a 25-minute train journey from Nantes to Clisson. This charming town offers winding paths, ancient bridges, and a 13th-century castle that will transport you back in time. Dining alfresco at La Villa Saint Antoine, surrounded by the sounds of splashing and laughter from the nearby pool, is a wonderful way to immerse yourself in the local culture.
Clisson’s 15th-century market hall is worth exploring, with its impressive wooden beams creating a visually stunning effect. The Chateau de Clisson, although destroyed during the French Revolution, has been restored and stands proudly on the banks of the Sevre Nantaise.
After a day of exploration, I recommend winding down with a glass of local wine at Centr’Halles Cafe. At just €1.50, it’s a steal, and the friendly service comes with a smile.
To plan your trip to Nantes, Aer Lingus and Ryanair offer flights from Dublin. From the airport, buses and trams provide affordable transportation to the city. Alternatively, a taxi ride should cost around €25.
During my stay, I had the pleasure of being hosted by Nantes Tourism. I stayed at the centrally located four-star Hotel de France Oceania, which offers comfortable rooms starting at €130 per night, including breakfast.
This article was first published in The Herald.
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